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4

Plastics are a very controversial issue, and it is unlikely that we'll have a clear consensus on longterm safety anytime soon. Some plastics are unambiguously unfit for food use (especially at high temperatures), while others are likely fine. Generally speaking, the safest plastic container for no chill brewing would be a HDPE without plasticizers. If you ...


3

The downsides as far as I can see are (in descending order of severity) 1) Possible toxicity of the plastic. 2) Recipe alterations due to the continued elevated temps after the boil is over. 3) Risk for contamination. Right now, the current thinking is that "food safe", "heat resistant" HDPE plastics are OK for No Chilling. I am personally content enough ...


3

You're right that dead yeast is a good nutrient for live yeast. The growth medium used for yeast in the lab is YE (yeast extract) plus some sugar. This plan will probably provide some nutrition to the yeast, and work out OK for a few batches, but I think that problems will crop up. You won't actually make yeast extract. Yeast extract is made inducing ...


2

I made a great Falconers Flight IPA using no chill last winter. I simply added a sufficient bittering charge 40-50 IBUs at 60 minutes. Then added 3 oz of pellets at Flameout. Put the lid on and walked away. I transferred to the fermentor the next day. With a couple days left in fermentation I added another 2 oz of FF pellets to the fermentor. 5 days ...


2

I'd suggest you do a basic bittering addition, then do a massive "flameout/cube" hopping, like 3-4oz of something pungent. Ferment with a clean yeast, and that will give you some idea of a baseline for non-dry-hopped hop aroma and flavor. I did this basically with EKG once, and it was underwhelming, but good hoppy beers are tough to nail and it could have ...


2

Regular Polypropylene will release mild to moderate toxins at high temperatures. While Polypropylene (PP) is food-grade safe at room temperatures, and commonly used for containers (arguably safe for chilled wort according to comments in the previous link), the Energy Working Group gives it a "low" rating for overall hazard. My recommendation, don't use it ...


2

I can't comment on the safety of the material, but I can say that No Chilling does not really work if you try to drop the wort temps down before adding the liquid. When the wort goes into the tank, it is the fact that the wort is very close to 100C/212F that guarantees against infection while its sealed. The super-hot wort does a wet pasteurization of all ...


2

It comes down to your sanitation and process. You want to be filling those cubes hot. This means above 190ºF. This will, to a significant degree, sanitize the inside of the container and ensure that you'll be able to store it for a reasonable period of time. Many no chill brewers go for weeks or even months before pitching yeast.


1

I just realized that after fermentation is done, I will need at least an extra keg to transfer my beer out of the fermentors, anyway. My batches are of 3 kegs. So I will need to take an 4º keg to transfer the first. After that, I could just drain and clean the emptys one by one and do the other transfers. So what I've done was to fill the 3 kegs with ...


1

I think you could skip the CO2 & shaking in step 2: The bike pump should be able to make more than enough pressure to seat the seals, especially if they are well lubricated. The only question is whether air will go in fast enough. So maybe use a mountain bike pump, not not a road bike pump. The bubbles from the pump will do a more than adequate job of ...


1

The benefit is that you don't have to chill the wort with an immersion chiller or cold bath. You can set it in the cube and leave it to reach pitching temp. The downside is that you have another vessel to clean and some people worry about the effect of not chilling your wort. Most people like the effect of cold break, but this is a new method so it's bound ...



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