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10

Carboy neck handles. I bought one and never used it and probably never will. I don't trust the neck on a full carboy and an empty carboy is easy enough to move. For full carboys I always use a Brew Hauler... definitely a great piece of equipment! I'd probably also suggest anything to solve a "problem" you didn't know you have... water treatment, Ph, etc. ...


7

Intermediary kegging solutions like Party Pigs or Tap-A-Drafts. These things are great when you can't move into a full blown kegging set up, which requires a lot of extra gear, but as soon as you start kegging for real, then they get stuck on a shelf and forgotten. I'd encourage anyone who is considering them to just jump to normal kegs instead, unless ...


7

I really, really hate when this happens: I'm sure most of you know how to fix it.


5

I never use my flip-top bottles anymore. They're too much of a hassle. The cages like to oxidize. The rubber seals wear out. They don't seal as well as regular bottles. Because you don't throw the caps away, if you label them with a little sticker, you then have to clean it off. You always have to explain to your friends how to open them, and you can't ...


4

I would add that as a winemaker the first thing I am ditching are my plastic buckets as primary fermenters. Glass is roughly 3 times the price and stainless steel is 10 times but I think worth the investment if you are in it for the long haul. I don't think this is as big of a deal for beer brewers but with wine, especially country wines, the buckets pick up ...


4

The trub will settle naturally as the beer finished fermentation. Don't worry about it. Especially don't try to "fix" it now. That often results in more problems than you originally had. There has been at least one test I know of using wort with trub vs. wort with trub removed. The beer was a pilsner and the conclusion was that the beer with the trub ...


3

If you're kegging and force-carbing, you don't need a carbonation stone. Waste of money and just something else you need to sanitize.


3

Ditto on the spring loaded bottle fillers. They seem like a great idea maybe the implementation is wrong - wider tube and much softer spring I think would work better than what I have seen in the US. But yeah, as is a total dud. I just line up a bunch of bottles in a tub to catch the spillage, start a siphon, and let the mutha run.


3

Spinning sparge arms - they don't spin properly, they cause you to lose heat during the sparge, and even the manufacturer says they're useless The "upside down carboy" fermenter kits - they just don't work and are a PITA to set up


2

Not sure what yeast you used but assuming it was a Belgian strain which are more tolerant to higher alcohol levels, then I would certainly look at pitching rate like the last answer said. If the yeast was pitched right out of the fridge (cold) you might have shocked the yeast, or if the yeast got to hot before pitched same problem unhealthy yeast pretty much ...


2

Adding water will lower your gravity through dilution. It will also dilute out all your other attributes (flavor, alcohol, mouthfeel, color etc etc). Being stuck at 1.058 seems too high to be simply off due to water dilution (unless you forgot to add several gallons to a concentrated boil). Being stuck at 1.058 is likely a fermentation/yeast management ...


1

I've getting rid of my bottles that hold more than 22 oz. The 32's and 1 L bottles don't fit well on a refrigerator shelf (usually too tall). You usually end up with a partial bottle that can go flat fairly quickly. "S" type airlocks - they are a pain to keep clean. Spring-loaded bottle filler - I find it just as easy to fill bottles directly from the ...



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