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An infection will usually make a ring right at the surface of the wort/must etc. Anything above the liquid would have come from the initial fermentation foam (or maybe from getting something in the neck of the bottling when filling, such as dry yeast). Mead will generate a little foam at the beginnning, so it's probably nothing to worry about. To be sure ...


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That sparkle is carbon dioxide (CO2), one of yeast's main fermentation byproducts. It occurs in all fermentations (beer, wine, mead etc.) and residual amounts will linger in the beverage for many months after fermentation is done. Beer and champagne makers go to lengths to create and capture CO2 in solution for its characteristic sparkle, while wine makers ...


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When to add fruit is somewhat subjective and debated, but the general principle is that the later you add, the more fresh-tasting and distinct the fruit character will be. If you want a more sherry-like "aged" fruit character then I would say add early. Personally I prefer the fresh flavor and aroma so I add macerated fruit to secondary. Another ...


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Most of the folks that I know who make mead add the fruit into the primary (a lot of the sugars will ferment in primary). You can taste it when you rack it over to your first secondary and add more fruit as you want.


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There is some risk of infection by beer-dwelling organisms, especially souring bacteria. Sanitation is less critical after primary, but if you want to be certain, clean utensils with something food-safe like Star San.


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There is nothing new. Distilled mead is called "mead balsam", at least in Lithuania, where "midus" (mead) was an ancient drink, later one factory tried to distill it. Please google for such drinks as "Suktinis" or "Zalgiris" (which is 75% strong)...Also see midus.lt In my personal opinion, mead (real matured mead, and the best mead shall be matured at least ...


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So, first things first, 1.130 is a pretty high starting gravity for some yeasts, and can cause some additional yeast stress, unless you are diligent with nutrients and your yeast is hearty enough to handle it. I'm not saying that this is necessarily a problem for D47, but its something to consider. The more work you expect the yeast to do, the more help you ...


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The preferred way to determine how much to add is by measuring a very small amount (a few milliliters to start) into a small sample of beer. It would be helpful to have a pipette or eye dropper to do this. Peppers can vary widely in capsaicin content, to you really want to be careful with them. Aromatic flavors will extract in alcohol, as they tend to be ...


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1) Dry mead usually turns out like a light dry wine with the floral hints of the honey coming through. 2) In my experience yes. 3) split the batch and see. 4) split the batch and see. 5) I usually do it just before bottling. But ensure I make sure to use a strong bottle in case some yeast slid past and turns it into sparkling mead. 6) Definitely split ...


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If I had a beer dropping 0.002 per day, I wouldn't call it stuck, I'd call it "nowhere near ready to bottle". I don't make much mead, but I have had mead go about that slow and still finish dry. But it did take a while. Try adding more nutrients, that seems to be a standard procedure. And I think stirring up the yeast is an acceptable practice too.


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That is from BJCG, Instructions to Mead Guidelines about carbonation That is from BJCP STYLE GUIDELINES 2008 edition A mead may be still, petillant, or sparkling. Still meads do not have to be totally flat; they can have some very light bubbles. Petillant meads are “lightly sparkling” and can have a moderate, noticeable amount of carbonation. ...


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There is always some CO2 in a fermenting liquid. Unless you have had recent changes in temperature or pressure, the amount of CO2 will be right at the saturation point, so that a little agitation will cause bubbles to appear.


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Just to contribute, we´re making distilled spirits from mead here in Brasil and we´re calling it something like "Pot Still Mead" or Hidromel de Alambique in Portuguese. Another consideration is directed to @J Shane Jacobs: the spirit from distilling molasses is rum. But the spirit from fresh sugar cane wine is called Cachaça (if produced in Brasil) and Rum ...


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I always wash my test equipment like I wash any other kitchen utensils.


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This is a great debate! While i personally lean on the side of calling distilled mead a honey brandy, i would agree with most people that commented so far. There isn't a clear category in which to fit a honey-sourced distilled alcohol. The average person is likely to view mead as a honey-based wine. But, this is not technically correct since a wine is ...


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Jail time. In the US home distillation is illegal. Unless you are making it for fuel in a vehicle in which case you just need to apply for a permit. However if you are looking to drink it then you are required to file paperwork and pay taxes. There are also rules on where you can distill. See the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax Trade Bureau for penalties. And here ...


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Well if we were going to vote on it mine would be Midus. It has been said a few times here and I think it's the most appropriate. It stands on it's own and doesn't need brandy, whisky, jack, or anything else acting as a crutch. Also it usually has that nice golden color so it makes a nice parallel with King Midus from Greek mythology that turned everything ...


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Did you add any yeast nutrients or raisins to the must? Honey and water sound like a feast for your yeast, but it is really like trying to eat three square meals at an ice-cream parlor. There is no real nutrition available. The normal practice with meads is to fortify the must with some packaged yeast-nutrient. The ancient practice is to throw a few ...


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It is normal for the air lock to slow way down after a couple days. It may bubble only once every few minutes. (And a watched pot never boils!) However, you may also have a bad seal. You can use the soapy water trick - mix a drop of dish soap in a glass of water. Then dab the water around the edge of seal and look for bubbles.


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71B is another very popular choice. I tend to use that or D47 for most of my meads, but there are a ton of options -- essentially any wine yeast will work, as will most ale yeasts (although they don't have the same alcohol tolerance and can introduce more obvious fermentation character to the mead). Never tried a lager yeast... No matter what yeast you use, ...


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If it tastes good to you, don't change it. If you do want to experiment, there are yeasts recommended for mead. EC-1118 and D-47 are dry yeasts that are commonly recommended. EC-1118 will ferment rather dry with a higher ABV. D-47 will leave slightly more residual sugar and a lower ABV than EC-1118. Both should produce more alcohol than US-05. WLP720 ...


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It sounds like the extra sugar content from the fruit led to a faster fermentation. Small changes in OG can have large effects on the fermentation, particularly if the temperature isn't controlled -- the faster fermentation leads to higher temperatures, leading to even faster fermentation, etc. Additionally, it's possible that the pectin from the fruit made ...


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I don't think you'll have ruined the batch just by using so much yeast to start. The yeast simply wouldn't have needed to reproduce as much as they normally do so the fermentation would have started faster and subsequently finished faster. When you say everything has settled to the bottom are you referring to fruit and spices you added for flavour? or just ...


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When making beer, wine, or mead, there is nothing that you can't not sanitize. It takes all of 5-10 minutes to stir up a batch of One-Step or Star San and sanitize your equipment, and it pretty greatly reduces your chances of contamination (assuming proper handling of the equipment). While the alcohol content should kill bacteria, sanitizer will.


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I have been making wine for many years and recently beer. I always sanitize anything that may come in contact with the wine or beer at any point in the process. Contamination is something cannot be undone, you are better safe than sorry.



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