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12

A while ago I visited a local meadery and chatted with the brewer (meader?). He was planning on making use of a local micro-distiller's equipment to produce a spirit from his mead. I asked him the name of the resulting product, and his answer was "distilled mead". Not the answer I was hoping for. I've never tasted such a thing and suspect that the subtle ...


10

The best resource for mead making is Ken Schramm's book The Compleat Meadmaker. It covers almost all you need to know about mead and is an excellent book. There current state of the art in mead builds on the information there and can be found in this pdf condensing the info from the Meadmaker of the Year panel at the National Homebrewers Conference. The ...


9

A couple years is a LONG time :) I would make a starter with the yeast, if the starter takes off then you're all set. If it doesn't get going, get some new yeast. These are some good instructions for making a starter http://www.beerdude.com/yeast_starter.shtml


8

Hopville lets you save recipes... it's not just a source of them, I often find that I can't find exactly the ingredients in a recipe. Also it will guesstimate Initial and Final gravity, color and other useful information.


8

Slow down a second, DWRHAH. What makes you think this batch is contaminted("infected")? Vigorous fermentation is usually just a sign of good yeast health. Most of my batches of beer are done with the bulk of fermentation 24-48 hours after pitching. Honey, unlike malt, is mostly monosaccharides, and is actually easier for yeast to ferment, thus would progress ...


7

You can transfer the mead from secondary into a keg for extended conditioning. In my experience it is better to bulk condition, then any adjustment that may need to be made can be done before bottling. These things would include stabilizing, back sweetening, adding acid, etc. If you bottle and later realize that you should have added some sweetness you ...


7

Most micro organisms will not grow in honey due to it's low water activity rating of 0.6. Bacteria needs at least 0.91 and fungi needs .7 water activity to grow. The water activity of distilled water is exactly 1. Most honey should be fine for making mead without heating. You do need to be aware that if it starts to separate the water activity has ...


7

An extended soak of your brew bucket with warm cleanser and/or bleach or baking soda will help clear up your bucket post this ferment. Its not something to worry about IMO. My old buckets have definite stains from years of use but I've never had carry over flavor issues. Its usually too dilute compared to the flavors of the next ferment.


7

Pure sugar is the most fermentable substance, at 1.046 points per pound per gallon. With 12 pounds of sugar in 3 gallons, you'd expect a OG of 1.183. Honey has an estimated yield of 35 ppg, and correspondingly the gravity would be lower - 1.135. There could be 3 possibilities for the observed high gravity the stratification is causing the reading to be ...


7

According to Wikipedia there doesn't appear to be much in the way of a family name for it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mead I think the closest would be "Midus" Midus: Lithuanian for mead, made of natural bee honey and berry juice. Infused with carnation blossoms, acorns, poplar buds, juniper berries and other herbs, it is often made as a mead distillate ...


6

In the words of Dwight Schrute, "That's debatable. There are basically two schools of thought..." Some people swear that honey should never be heated, and others maintain that heating or chemical pasteurization is necessary. Regardless of your stance, it's undeniable that heating honey destroys it's aroma and flavor, so it's best to minimize the amount of ...


6

Absolutely safe to drink, and absolutely tasty. Schramm mentions keeping some for 5 years or more. And I've heard of people making mead for their children's 21st birthday that would be as old as the kid. :) Enjoy!


6

It most certainly is a function of your fermentation profile. Reviewing your temperatures and the amount of yeast you pitch makes a difference. Mead is also a fairly poor nutrient substrate for yeast. The very best mead makers preach about staggered nutrient additions while also degassing the CO2 from the must during the early part of fermentation. ...


6

Here is a link to a document written by Steve Piatz who was the AHA mead maker of the year a few years ago. The method is often referred to as the staggered nutrient addition method. The types of nutrients typically used are Yeast Energizer which contains diammonium phosphate(DAP) and fermaid K or Nutriferm Advance which are similar nutrient blends. The ...


6

Assuming that all of the proceeding is accurate, would it not just be a "honey brandy"? I can imagine a very sweet flavor with an interesting aroma and probably fairly drinkable if not pleasant flavor. I know that mead was popular in Egypt, Turkey, etc. since the dawn of civilization and you can't be the first person in human history to think of this so I ...


6

I have my own family recipe that I have recently cooked off made from clover honey. We have always called it honeydew whiskey even though it does not meet description standards of whiskey. Its what I have heard several old timers call it


6

No it wont. In fact it can break up yeast floculation and aid fermentation. There is risk of oxidation if much alcohol has been produced when it was shook. But the c02 in headspace should minimize it. I once fermented a 5 gal 1.086 apple wine to 0.992 in a couple days on a stirpate to completely deny the yeast floculation.


5

You do not need to use grape juice. I know that honey has almost no nutrients and such for the yeast cells to eat. Most recipes I've seen have you throw in a teabag (for a few days), or grape juice, or whatnot to add nutrients to the must so the yeast can do it's work. I personally go with Yeast Nutrient and Yeast Energizer. I'd suggest starting with a ...


5

The purpose of degassing in wine or mead is to benefit the yeast. CO2 is toxic to yeast and inhibits the yeast's ability to fully ferment the larger amount of sugars in wine/mead. Degassing mead is highly recommended during primary fermentation to help the yeast, even if you plan on making a sparkling mead. I'm curious about whether beer would benefit from ...


5

Wine is degassed because it is served still. "Still" is a term that means not-carbonated. Beer is carbonated, so there is no need to bother, since you are introducing CO2 to the beer anyway. Mind you, there are phases of beer production on certain styles where you are essentially degassing, (diacetyl rest) but that is for different reasons than why you ...


5

You should be fine storing wine in a stainless container. It is entirely light proof and air-tight. Beer has been stored and served in stainless steel for many years. You are correct, white wines are fermented in stainless vessels. Reds can be too (they add wood chips to the mix to simulate barrels).


5

How do you cover the 5L mason jar? Does it have any sort of airlock, and is there a means of preventing bacteria and/or fruit flies out of the jar? I ask because fruit flies carry acetobacter (they're also known as vinegar flies), and acetobacter turns alcohol into vinegar in the presence of oxygen. So if your mead was exposed to air and a fruit fly got ...


5

I'd use a degasser, just like for wine. Also works great to aerate beer...


5

It depends somewhat on what flavors you are looking for and how long you want to wait, post-fermentation, to drink it. Warmer fermentation is going to produce more fruity esters from the yeast, but they also produce more complex (hot) alcohols. Primary fermentation will finish relatively quickly, but the mead is going to have to sit in secondary for ...


5

I once heard a name for this called "drakas"(spelling). As told it was a Norse drink made by placing a bowl of honey mead outside overnight. In the morning, chip off the ice and repeat a few times untill a thick drink was the result.


5

Contamination('infection') will usually make a ring right at the surface of the wort/must etc. Anything above the liquid would have come from the initial fermentation foam (or maybe from getting something in the neck of the bottling when filling, such as dry yeast). Mead will generate a little foam at the beginnning, so it's probably nothing to worry about. ...


4

Try these for Beer: http://beerrecipes.org/ http://www.hbd.org/recipator/ http://www.tastybrew.com/


4

Here are some Jamil Zainasheff Beer recpies Jamil Recipes Jamil's Brewing Network Recipes


4

Here are some good resources for making mead at home: http://www.makemead.net/ http://www.gotmead.com/


4

You need a fermenting chamber and a way to seal that chamber off from outside invaders and sanitizing liquid. That's it as a minimum. A glass jug or carboy is probably the most common fermentation chamber, whether the 1 gallon variety or the bigger 5-6 gallon variety. Glass is used by lots of people because it scratches a little less than plastic and ...



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