New answers tagged mash
Sure, it would change the color, but isn't the color already altered due to the increased density of the wort? By adding water, you'd be diluting the SRM back to what you originally expected. By having a higher extraction yield, you will suffer a slight loss in alpha acid isomerization (likely not all that noticeable with an 8%+/- efficiency difference). ...
I don't think there is a typical conversion efficiency for homebrewers since it very much depends upon the nature of the equipment. Mash tun shape/depth and use of recirculation will have a big impact. If you pushed me for a figure, I'd say anywhere from 80-98% is typical for mash conversion efficiency. I measure the SG of the wort continually throughout ...
In addition to the answer brewchez provided, here is something I have done in these situations: Get a 3-piece airlock and some 1/2" tubing and fashion it like so: I fill the bucket with bleach or star san.
Next time try cooling down to under 70°F/20°C and letting it ferment in a cooler place, say around 64-65F/17°C - that will reduce the amount of foam produced since the yeast work slower. You will probably also get cleaner tasting beer as a result.
Sounds like a normal healthy fermentation. You did nothing wrong. In the future you could get a piece of sanitized tubing larger enough to fit in the opening of the carboy and jam it in there. Then direct all that foam into a pitcher or bucket of water at the side of the carboy. That's called a blow off. But what you did was fine. Once the foaming ...
You typically do not need to mash Cara-helles or Caravienne. They are fully converted during the process used to make them the crystal malts that they are. They can be steeped in your wort post lautering and pre-boil.
For the best results, you should always check your pH and adjust if necessary. Using RO water doesn't change anything. Remember, it's the pH of the mash, not the water, that matters. As pointed out above, you will also need to adjust the mineral content of your water for flavor. That will likely also have an effect on the pH.
Recent research by water engineer Martin Bru'ngard (author of the killer Bru'nwater spreadsheet)is leading to the conclusion that less calcium is needed than previously thought. His preliminary findings are that 50 ppm of Ca is generally enough for ales, and lager yeast may perform better with as little as 20 ppm. Too much Ca can lead to cloudy beers. His ...
You'll get more browning with higher pH, but there are also plenty of other reasons for producing a darker wort, so you'll need to at least check the pH before deciding to do anything about it. Ideally your pre-boil pH should be around 5.3-5.5 - lower is better. While adjusting pH may help you with the color, you should be adding minerals to the RO water ...
Pound for pound, Flaked oats and Steel Cut oats should have the same impact on body, flavor, and mouthfeel. Both processes begin with raw, dehulled oats. The "groats" are toasted to halt lipolytic enzyme activity that would make the oats go rancid. Here, the process diverges. Steel cut oats are cut along the length of the groat, giving that small, ...
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