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In general, as said, mash thickness between 1-2 qt./lb. will make little to no difference. Even as high as 3 qt./lb. is fine. Kai Troester ( has performed detailed experiments that show that higher rations lead to greater conversion efficiency. I've pasted in a chart from his work below. He has said that thinner mashes convert more ...


While many people cite the changes in body and fermentability that can come with changes in water to grist ratios, the impact from 1qt/lb (~ 2l/kg) changing to 1.5 qt/lb (3l/kg) is not noticeable at all, IMO. I have only noticed the impact when going from 1qt/lb to 3 or more qt/lb. The main concern with calculations is that if you are batch sparging you ...


@Hopwise addressed the issue of efficiency and mash thickness. But the amount of sparge water will affect your efficiency as well. The more water you sparge with, the more sugar you'll extract from the mash. The grist will absorb a constant amount of water (around 0.13 gallons per pound of grist). When you add your sparge water and stir, all the sugars are ...


Mash thickness has a small impact on your beer, but not really enough to stress about. I aim for a constant thickness, regardless of beer style. Some brewers give their stronger beers to have a thicker mash, while their low-gravity beers have a thinner mash. The logic behind that latter approach is that thinner mashes encourage a more fermentable beer. My ...


I usually try to go with 1.3 quarts/lbs. that's comfortable for me to work with (relatively easy to stir), and with a stainless braid, i usually get around 70% efficiency with smaller beers. I have seen my efficiency drop when I'm closer to 1 quart/lbs, but that's usually with target OGs above 1.090.


Answers will vary, but for the most part you won't notice a difference in a beer with 1 vs 2 qt/lb. In theory mash chemistry can be effected by thickness, but at that range and on the homebrew scale you'd be hard pressed to really taste a difference in side by side comparisons.

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