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6

What you're asking about is usually called "Hot Side Aeration", or HSA. A few years ago, there was a lot of concern about HSA and people thought that excessive mash stirring or splashing could lead to early staling of beer. Recently, opinion is that HSA is just not a big deal for home brewers. It's something that large, commercial breweries might have to ...


5

For most things I just use my trusty stick, otherwise known as a thin dowel from the hardware store. Pour one gallon into your pot, stand stick in pot, note water line, and mark with a sharpie or other implement. The curvature of a pot can affect the height of each tick mark, so I usually experimentally measure a few more gallons until I'm at the straight ...


5

Get the right crush This is the single most important thing to prevent a stuck sparge. Read the HomebrewTalk's wiki page on evaluating the crush. An ideal milling breaks the internal bits of grain into a coarse powder while leaving the bulk of the husks intact. It is the husks that do the most to set up a good filter. full size Use a good manifold ...


4

Little to none, most likely. Between boiling most of the oxygen out, putting more oxygen back in, and then the yeast multiplying and eating up whatever is in suspension, it's really not something you need to worry about. You should definitely be concerned about excessive oxygen post-fermentation, but I don't think it matters much on the hot side.


4

I think you have the right idea about sealing the rim of your false bottom. The common method is to use a length of vinyl tubing slit lengthwise. The false bottom fits into the slit as you wrap the tubing around it.


3

200L? Wow. You might consider using a length of copper tubing with slits cut in it, instead of a false bottom. My mash tun came with a false bottom which was always a bit of a pain to get nicely into place. One day I replaced it with the copper tube thing and I love it! I have since replaced my mash tun with a larger one, but I'm still using the same ...


3

Sure, it would change the color, but isn't the color already altered due to the increased density of the wort? By adding water, you'd be diluting the SRM back to what you originally expected. By having a higher extraction yield, you will suffer a slight loss in alpha acid isomerization (likely not all that noticeable with an 8%+/- efficiency difference). ...


1

One thing I have noticed with some of the recipe kits is that they don't always separate the adjuncts from the grain. Running flaked maize, wheat or oats through a mill is a guaranteed stuck sparge. Make sure that the more non-grain ingredients in the recipe the more attention you pay to volume, mash thickness, sparge temperature and flow rates. I think its ...


1

For my kettle I made a measuring rod using a length of copper pipe (Home Depot sells 3' lengths of pre-cut pipe for about $2). I used a file to mark it at 1 quart increments. When boiling, I just leave the rod in the kettle. Since it's copper, it's contributing valuable nutrients to the wort. And by staying in the boil, it's also sanitary.



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