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9

The solution I use is to mark my spoon with permanent marker. I have marks for each half gallon. Works really well without messing with the kettle itself. This obviously is kettle specific, so if you are using multiple kettles you can have markings of different color to differentiate the different markings per kettle.


9

3 common ways include: 1. calibrated dipstick or spoon (easiest) Before your next brew session, take a 1 gallon pitcher or some other known volume vessel. One gallon at a time, pour the water into your kettle, let it settle, then put the dipstick or spoon in. Mark the top of the wet line with a sharpie or craft knife. Repeat for each gallon. Measuring ...


8

Aluminum is acceptable, just not as good as some other materials. It's relatively cheap, has good conductivity, and doesn't corrode too easily. Some problems you run into are corrosion when placed near other metals, though that shouldn't be too big a problem in homebrewing. But, let's say you left a copper chiller in it overnight by accident.. could be ...


6

According to Brewkaiser, the ideal boil pH (room temp sample pre boil) should be around 5.2-5.4. Much lower than that, and you'll reduce hop utilitilization, but much higher and the hop utiliziation increases, but the bitterness is harsher. (The same process that causes tannin extraction at higher pH in the mash is at play in the boil also.) A higher pH in ...


6

I've actually been thinking about getting one myself since I too currently use my electric range. It would be nice to have the super fast boil times of gas but the even heating of electric, not to mention you can brew indoors. I think the major concern would be in controlling the temperature. I've seen some induction burners with only 1 or 2 heat settings ...


5

I always hear the myth that using aluminum will cause Alzheimers and I'm surprised no one has asked it here. This myth was debunked years ago. See: Alzheimer's Society: Aluminium and Alzheimer's disease Alzheimer's Association: Alzheimer Myths


4

Removing hot break is beneficial to your finished beer. Many of the compounds taste bad and can stay in suspension through fermentation to packaging. Totally removing hot & cold break, such as with a pre-fermenter filter, can damage head retention. You need some of those proteins. Brewing Techniques has a good article on the subject. There are a few ...


3

I use an aluminum yardstick, which let's you do pretty accurate measurements on multiple pots/kettles, without needing to use a marker on anything (I've had problems with marker wearing off and worry about toxicity of the ink). Put a gallon of water in your pot, measure how high it is, and write it down somewhere. Then you'll always be able calculate what ...


3

Just treat it like any other mash tun. Before you pull that thing out of the kettle start drawing off wort through the valve at the base (at least it looks like a valve in the picture). Collect it in a pitcher that you can easily pour from. Then slowly pour in back in at the top of the cylinder. Do this repeatedly until you think the wort looks clear ...


3

I have done this for my first batch (extract). It is not recommended. I was using this model, which has a big-looking cooking area, but only actually heats about a four-inch circle in the middle. The heat is great. It doesn't heat up your house. It gets 85% efficiency. I calculated the watts to BTU's and it does get the efficiency they claim. The hot spot ...


3

John Palmer says Deeper grainbeds have more uniform rinsing, all else being equal. An more uniform rinsing can mean increased yield, so then shape does have some impact. As Denny says, taller is better since there is more chance for the water to rinse the grains when fly sparging. (But, up to a point, if the grain bed is very deep then it might become ...


3

Heat is heat; the source is somewhat meaningless when you first start brewing. The key is that you are happy with how long it takes to get up to a boil, and that you don't scorch wort in the bottom of the pot. Many brewers move outside with a propane cooker because the propane burner is a bit faster to get things boiling which shortens the brew day. If you ...


3

Tour as many of your local breweries as possible. Sometimes kegs get damaged with cracks in the neck area. I have asked in been offered to let me buy these types of kegs from this source in the past. Your local package store may offer you the same thing. Supposedly, you can cruise local scrap yards for kegs. But the cost of stainless these days has ...


3

If you're using a pre-hopped extract, no boil brewing is possible. All extracts have already been boiled by the manufacturer anyways; with extracts, the main purpose behind boiling is you need the higher temperatures to cause isomerization of the hop acids so the hop bitterness gets into the beer. Secondary reasons for boiling extracts are additional protein ...


3

The problem with sight gauges with pre-defined volume labels is that the manufacturer is not able to determine what size kettle you are attaching it to, and even if you are an 1/4 of an inch off, you could possibly be a 1/4 - 1/2 gallon off the mark (depending on how wide the kettle is). I guarantee the 5-gallon mark on my Blichmann boil kettle is not going ...


3

Based on my own experience, an 8 gal. kettle will barely work for a 5 gal. batch. Even at that, you might have to boil a concentrated wort and add top up water after the boil. Remember that in addition to accounting for trub and evaporation, you also need some headroom in there to start with. I wouldn't recommend anything less than 15 gal. for a 10 gal. ...


2

The main problem with aluminum pots is that it oxidizes easily, which means that you can't use oxidating cleaners with them and oxidating cleaners are magical. But will they do all the horrible and nasty things that urban myth says they will do? Not really. Interesting resrouce: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Is_aluminum_safe_for_brewing%3F


2

I suggest you build your own. There is a great how to build a heat stick thread on homebrew talk. I have heard that carmelization is not an issue using immersion heater elements. In order to provide enough heat for a rolling boil you will need 220 VAC and at least a 4000-5000 watt element I believe. Electricty is dangerous, so is propane. Make sure you ...


2

As long as you can get a good rolling boil with about 8-12% evaporation rate per hour then there is nothing wrong with an induction cooktop. Just my $0.02.


2

I am a single burner all grain brewer so I figured I would share my process. Right now I have a 8.5g polarware kettle w/ thermometer and ball valve, a 4g pot for an HLT and a 10g igloo mash tun. My typical setup is heat the mash water in my polarware kettle, and then mash in to the cooler. Then, depending on how much sparge water (I batch sparge) I either ...


2

The main thing you need to consider is the boil-kettle in terms of size, because of boil off. For example, you want a 9 or 10+ gallon boil kettle for 5 gallon all-grain batches if you're doing a full boil, because you will have boil-off and generally want to start with around 7 gallons of water, and will want some room in the pot above the water line. 7 ...


2

Two ideas for you, with the caveat that I have no direct experience with pumps + BIAB, I'm just spitballing here. A false bottom will keep your bag off the kettle floor and away from the outlet. I couldn't easily see if MoreBeer makes a false bottom to fit that particular kettle, but there's probably a generic product that will fit reasonably well. A ...


2

I have aluminum HLT and BK and used a dremel to make a small mark at each gallon level. I marked with a china marker when the water was in there (adding one gallon at a time), and after I dried it out, I used the dremel. I marked in 3 columns, 120 degrees apart, so I'd be able to see at least one measurement no matter which side I was standing on. Also, I ...


2

I have to agree with dax, it really depends what you are making. If you are in fact making a cider you might not want to boil it to utilise the wild yeast that is present on the peel of the fruit. If you are reading a recipe that is specifically mentioning your malt extract (or brewing kit) and it mentions that you need to boil it, then it probably means ...


2

Well, it depends on the losses you assume along the way. For 5 gallons, if you assume a trub loss of 0.5 gallons, and evaporation loss of 1.0 gallon, then you would need 6.5 gallons of wort to get 5 gallons into a fermenter. If you follow the oft-quoted rule of thumb that you want minimum headspace in your kettle equal to one-third of your boil volume, that ...


1

I have a Blichmann burner with the leg extensions, and to that point, you may need a platform to set it on to do all of your gravity feeding. I gravity feed from the kettle on the burner to the mash tun (48qt cooler sitting on top of a 5 gallon bucket), and usually have to lift the kettle and pour out the last gallon or so when the mash tun is full, ...


1

If you want to brew 10 gallons, I recommend the Blichmann pot, although I would go with the 20 gallon size - 15 gallons is on the small side for a boil kettle for 10 gallon batches. Here's why. For a 10 gallon batch, you'll typically want about 11.5-12 gallons at the end of boiling, to account for trub, losses to chiller, losses in the fermentor, hydrometer ...


1

I can't speak to any of the Blichmann equipment, as I have none. With that said, I also run a single burner set up, and I would highly recommend you change the title of your 5 gallon cooler from 'mash tun' to 'hot liquor tank'. That is what I use and it works quite well...plus you have this already. So you heat your mash water on the burner and mash in with ...


1

For batch sparging, it doesn't matter. For fly sparging, taller is a bit better.



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