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4

You MUST have the poppet in place. And it must be working properly. There are two poppets that work together. One in the post on the keg as pictured AND there is also one inside the beverage line disconnect. It is usually a clear like plastic nub. Both poppets are spring loaded, and need to push on each other to create an open path for liquid to flow. ...


3

I'm guessing you are thinking of getting a small bar fridge, then turing it over so the opening points to the ceiling? Honestly I am not sure that would work at all. You would need to chill the keg for at least three hours in a completely sealed fridge and with the door open it might take much longer or maybe not even work at all. I see two options which ...


3

Every fridge is different, so you cannot tell just by what fridge it is. You can get an idea as to where the coolant lines are by using a paste made from mixing some cornflour with alcohol and coating the sides when the fridge is off. Then start the fridge and watch where the paste starts to dry. Even once you think it's safe, it is best to slowly dig out ...


2

No, length is not a problem. Just coil your beerline and tape it together so that it is not a mess whenever you open the door. CO2 should be outside the fridge. Yes, you can drill through the side, but the door is usually the safest. When drilling through the side, avoid the 5cm around the sides as there are cooling tubes running there. An even better idea ...


2

You can also try Googling the specific model of refrigerator to see if anyone else has tried drilling into it. Occasionally the service manual is available, too, which might have a coolant routing diagram that will help.


1

Sounds like the dip tube and gas tube got reversed when it was rebuilt, or the tube is missing its oring. But then you would have gas comming out the faucet (not "nothing") and would hear bubbling from c02 going in through the dip tube. If there is "nothing" comming out not even gas. Clogged dip tube Clogged nipple valve Bad ball / pin lock (not ...


1

I think you will have problems trying to keep the keg cold, and this will be terribly inefficient: The temperature of the beer in the keg will tend to equalize, and so the exposed keg will constantly be warming the beer as the refrigerator tries to cool it. Have you considered a jockey box? For short periods of time, they are very effective at chilling beer ...


1

I just went and worked on this the past weekend (11/14/2015). This allows me to run the output from my corny keg through my standard kegerator. The thread you need for the "beer end" is a 7/8-14, which is also know as 5/8"bsp. Ask the hardware store for this and they will look at you very strange....It ends up being the thread for a flare fitting (i think ...


1

I use a freezer and instead of getting one of those fancy external temperature controllers I changed the major adjustment on the built in thermostat to get in the range of a refrigerator (the lowest it can now get is around 33 degrees Fahrenheit.) I also drilled a hole though the top so I could keep the gas bottle outside. (I don’t have a collar.) This ...


1

This is the closest to "low profile" that I have seen. http://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-bev-stainless-flared.html http://www.williamsbrewing.com/STAINLESS-STEEL-GAS-BALL-LOCK-BARBED-P3877.aspx


1

Have you tried taking apart and cleaning out everything below the tubing (valve / dip tube, etc). I had an issue with excessive foam that turned out to be some hop trub getting picked up and clogging the valve. Give everything a thorough cleaning and make sure all o-rings are seated properly before going to more drastic measures.


1

From my experience there are a few things that caused beer foam for me. Watch out for CO2 saturation! Carbonating for long periods (or shaking) with too high a pressure will mean that you cannot get anything but foam. This one was a killer for me when I started because I would shake the kegs at 40 psi and release the pressure then apply 8 psi for the ...



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