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4

There absolutely is a difference. You can see it in the natural variability of hop crops from year to year. Growing conditions (moisture, soil composition, nitrogen, sun, pests) can all have a great effect on hop flavor, aroma, bitterness, storability, etc., even with the same hop plant in the same field. Look at German varieties for a good example. Most ...


2

Hop bitterness is relatively stable, falling off over the course of many months. Hop flavor and aroma is more volatile, falling off dramatically over the course of weeks, then more so over the course of months. If you want bright, high hop flavor and aroma, look into "dry-hopping", where hops are added to the post-fermented beer. This is pretty much ...


1

BJCP's current draft guidelines seem to say (big pdf) that various types of Belgian beers in categories 21B (Specialty IPA, scroll down for Belgian Specialty IPA) or 26C (Belgian Tripel) should use European hops. In particular, for 26C they say: "A low yet distinctive spicy, floral, sometimes perfumy hop character is usually found." So in regards to ...


1

It's hard to tell how fine the mesh is, but I think there'd be a good chance by the end of the boil, the metallic tea bag would be empty. In my experience, hop pellets end up dissolving into a sludge. The particulates are small enough that the tea bag may not contain them. I'd instead go with a fine mesh bag. Re-usable, cheaper, easier to clean.


3

As long as the total volume of the "tea bag" thing is sufficiently large for the hops and wort to mix freely I am sure its fine. Overall though its generally totally unnecessary to strip all the hop matter out. It will usually settle fine when fermentation is done.



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