New answers tagged

0

If you live near a good juice bar or restuarant that serves smoothies, ask the sales clerk if they have any empty glass jugs. Many drinks have an apple juice base and organic apple juice often ships in 1 gallon glass jugs. I've found two shops that happily give the jugs away for free, though I usually buy a smoothie in gratitude. Being a tipping patron ...


1

Depends on batch size. If your doing 2-3 gallons. I would recommend using glass 1 gallon jugs from wine or Apple juice. The cheeseball containers I believe are made from the same foodgrade plastic as 2 liter soda bottles. They are novel in that they have more volume and a large opening for dry hopping. I think either would be a good fermentor untill you ...


1

The utility of ramping up temperature can change wildly depending on yeast strain, pitch rate, wort composition, the fermentation temperature and much more. I wouldn't necessarily pin it to dark ales, but as you mention British Ale yeast, I'll speak to it from that stand point. Fermentation does create some of its own heat. As the fermentation winds down ...


2

There are many benefits in having accurate control over the temperature of your brew. It allows you to control many variables. You can: control the ester profile alter the speed of fermentation improve the health of your yeast speed up the clearing of your brew Lets look at 1, for the first 3 days you get the majority of your yeast reproduction, ...


4

No it wont. In fact it can break up yeast floculation and aid fermentation. There is risk of oxidation if much alcohol has been produced when it was shook. But the c02 in headspace should minimize it. I once fermented a 5 gal 1.086 apple wine to 0.992 in a couple days on a stirpate to completely deny the yeast floculation.


0

I have a few friends that made an apple flavoured beer, they added some apple pulp to the boil, and then added apple slices to the secondary. Regarding the caramel, I'd add it at the end of the boil, just to quickly flash sanitise it.


3

Yeast with a high floculation rate will do this, they usually break off the bottom and float up from trapped c02. Beer looks really clear, good job. When you rack to secondary, go ahead and let the floaters suck into the secondary, usually this is enough to break them up and let them settle. If you don't mind the extra loss you can leave them behind. ...


1

From the picture it looks like normal yeast clumps to me. Sometimes you get dried krausen falling back in the beer and it doesn't really dissolve and settle out. Its hard to say looking at an internet picture, but that's what it looks like to me.


1

UV wavelengths do not penetrate glass. It is more likely that visible wavelengths catalyze photodegrading reactions of the dissolved organic carbon, the stuff leaching out of the hops included.


0

Dry yeast is already matured past the aerobic phase at packaging. Your pitch amount was about at max culture population so there was probably very little growth phase esters generated. It's very possible it completely fermented in 24-48 hours. I'm sure your cider will be fine. Since you don't have a hydrometer yet, pull a sample off for a taste, I'm sure ...


0

Real question is how big do you need to have X final beer. If you keg it's generally 4.75-5gal you want at the end. Depending on the style and fermentaion. I've found you can hit 5 gallons easily by brewing 6 pretty easily. Carboys are at capacity at the shoulder, I use 6 or 6.5s primary, and 5 gal secondary usually. The idea is to allow headspace for ...


1

I had an email discussion about this with John Palmer. I am paraphrasing here, but basically he said that in primary the head space isn't an issue at all (see jsled's explanation which is spot on). It's only in secondary where it is a problem (oxidation). Of course he also said that while in the past many brewers espoused racking to secondary, he was of ...


1

The main point of conical fermenters is to allow all the sediment to be funneled and drained out the bottom. With a conical fermenter, it's easier to separate the beer from the sediment so less beer is wasted. As you noted, the bottommost valve is for drawing out the yeast and sediment, and the upper valve can be used to draw out the beer to a serving tank ...


0

How about this... Use your carboy handle. Tighten the wing nut so the handle is hard to move. Adjust it to hold the Bung down like this: 8 Ways to use a carboy handle



Top 50 recent answers are included