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my 2 homebrew fermenters were getting about 30 to 40 minutes of direct sunlight at about 10 am every morning for about 6 to 7 days and the beer tastes terrible. I am now covering up my fermenters a will see how the next batch tastes.


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When the bug is ready to use, it should NOT smell like fresh ginger. The ginger bug should smell like ginger at first, and then as the days go by and you add more ginger and sugar it starts to develop a yeasty/alcoholic smell. The bug is made to get the yeast culture going, so it makes sense that it smells like that. I can still smell the ginger in ...


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The temperature will vary, but as fermentation proceeds we will be generating CO2 which aids convection within the fermenter. As such you should not see a large difference, but if you see any then measure 1/2 way.


5

I think what you made is safe, but there's no way to not produce alcohol with that method.


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For a big beer like that, I usually do a month in primary and at least a month in secondary. I haven't had any trouble using those plastic water bottles for extended secondary fermentations. My biggest concern with those bottles is that they might allow oxygen in, but I almost always bottle condition my big beers for a few months, and the yeast in the ...


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Measuring the wort temperature directly gives the most accurate information. To do this, you'll need to hook up a thermowell to your fermenter. There are a variety of styles for different types of fermenters. The second best option is to tape the temperature probe to the side of your fermenter and cover with an insulator like styrofoam or bubble wrap. The ...


4

You need to determine if you have a wort problem or a yeast problem. The way to do that is with a fast ferment test (sometimes called forced ferment test). Put some of the wort in a small sanitized container. You need enough to be able to take a gravity reading. Add a LOT of yeast to the sample...even bread yeast is fine for this since we want to know if ...


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No matter what the gravity reads, that beer is done. What was the OG? Was it an extract batch? I doubt repitching will make any difference.


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I would start by just swirling the carboy so that the yeast bed breaks up. Leave it for a few days and take another reading. It there is no or little change, then do as Pepi says; make a starter and re-pitch to the same fermenter.


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I'd pop the lid to let in some air, then reattach the lid and give fermenter a good shake, to stir things up, wait a day to see if it kicks off again, if not as pepi suggests use a starter.


1

I would worry about that smell. Several of my local home brewers have made plastic flavored beer, it doesn't go away, just gets stronger. When it happened to me, the beer went away, and the fermenter too.


3

There's no reason to dump a beer that isn't contaminated. After 1.5 weeks and a trip to 80F, the beer should be done fermenting. And warm temps late in fermentation have little impact on flavor. You can try stirring up the yeast, but a re-pitch of active yeast is probably worth doing. If you can make a starter that would really help, since the partly ...


1

What kind of water do you brew with? Chlorinated tap water can cause a rubber-like (Chlorophenol) taste or smell. If you pass tap water through a chlorine-removing filter, it might be time for a filter change.


2

The Wyeast smack packs have a small nutrient pouch inside the main pouch (which contains the yeast slurry). The nutrients will cause the yeast to "wake up" and consume the sugars in the nutrient liquid, causing the swelling. However, this is a function not only of the yeast, but also of the date of manufacture, the viability/vitality of the yeast and the ...


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Sulphur is normal in lagers, so I would not worry about that one. Even at 10C my lagers made a lot of sulphur! Esters are formed during the first few days (1 - 3) of the fermentation process, so you will have slightly more esters in your beer than planned. HOWEVER, lager yeasts have very little formation, so you might just get away with it. I don't think ...


3

This previous question may help you a bit: Is brewers' Lactobacillus heterofermentative or homofermentative? This is taken for Wikipedia According to metabolism, Lactobacillus species can be divided into three groups: Obligately homofermentative (Group I) including: L. acidophilus, L. delbrueckii, L. helveticus, L. salivarius Facultatively ...


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I usually keep in primary 1-2 weeks, depending on the strength, then even if using a plastic secondary will usually rack it in for a couple of weeks just help it clear out a bit more, then bottle. The time in the bottle being potentially months, will do far more for mellowing out and blending flavours, than a couple of weeks here or there in the secondary. ...


1

I will state up front that I don't brew lagers, but I believe this information applies to both lagers and ales. Most ester (or ester precursor) production occurs during yeast reproduction. Since this happens early on in the fermentation process, you likely can't do much to stop it now. You also can't reverse it once it is done. According to this article, ...


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Denny's answer is pretty accurate, I think. After fermentation is mostly complete, the beer is fairly resistant to infection. Regarding what post-fermentation additions people do, the answer is LOTS! Dry-hopping, fruit additions, vanilla, chocolate, wood, liquor, chili peppers, and coffee are all pretty common. I'm sure that I'm leaving out some other ...


3

Basically, you don't need to worry about it. I add coffee beans without any sanitation at all. I've even added unsanitized mushrooms right out of the woods without problem. By the time you add that stuff, there's not only alcohol n the beer, but it has a low pH. Those two things combine to make it very resistant to infection.


2

These yeast started out with a similar roots s.cerevisiae and diverged some time around the 15th Century, when it is thought to have hybridized with a new world yeast(Saccharomyces eubayanus). It is then likely that the yeast harvesting methods of different brewing techniques progressively selected for more specific varieties. In British and similar ...


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They are two different species: Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Saccharomyces pastorianus. They both do the same thing--convert sugar into alcohol--but they thrive in different conditions. The main difference is that lager yeasts continue to function at almost-freezing temperatures, while ale yeasts go dormant. The terms 'top-fermenting' and ...


2

Yes. You'll likely be fully fermented within 1 week, if you have a healthy pitch of yeast. Two weeks should be more than enough. Gravity readings are your best option to understanding fermentation/attenuation, here.


1

Most likely a wild yeast infection which could easily contain some of those strains and have the potential to be a positive in a Berliner, or not...(plastic, bandaid, and phenolic flavors possible). It does Look like a pellicle for sure! I would say if it smells rancid don't try it, if it taste terrible don't drink it, that's the best advice given to me on ...


1

Try getting the must pH to greater than 5,aim for around 5.4. Then add some extra yeast. Only do this if your addition of CaCO3 was not successfully fixed the pH.


0

What advantages/disadvantages would there be if one would filter it (if necessary) at its peak after a two day crash? I'm planning on a low gravity, 1.045 beer. 3 day primary, 5-6 days (or less if possible) on a berry in season. It'll be a raspberry wheat beer. Any advice on mash temp and mineral profile?



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