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10

This is no problem at all. To address your questions: "what effect (taste, strength, yeast effects) might I expect from adding the sugar at the start of fermentation?" Priming sugar (almost definitely glucose a.k.a dextrose), being nearly tasteless and highly fermentable (90+%), will increase ABV% without adding either residual (unfermentable) sugar or ...


7

It is impossible to predict YOUR FG. I know nothing about your skill level, your fermentation processes (temp, O2, pitching rates). I know nothing about the yeast you plan to use. I know nothing about the true fermentability of the extract and booster you are using. That said some estimates can be made. In the best of scenarios if we assume a 65% ...


7

You're fine, no need to panic. Leave your beer alone for another 2-3 weeks. Seriously, don't touch it, look at it, think about it, etc. Just leave it be for as long as you can stand it, and bottle it after 2-3 have passed. Regarding the smell, fermenting beer throws off all kinds of crazy, nasty, wonderful, weird smells as part of the fermentation process. ...


6

Duct tape....I've done it more than once.


6

This will not work with a tea-bag or any other kind of cloth. Unless it's enclosed in a very fine membrane the yeast would easily be able to get through, then disperse and propogate in the main liquid. However, something like this can actually be done. Some homebrewers have taken a high-technology cue from industrial beer and do what's known as an ...


5

First, there is almost never a need to use a secondary fermenter unless you add something to the beer that produces a true secondary fermentation. The idea of using a secondary on a regular basis comes from the commercial brewing industry. The fermenters homebrewers use are far smaller and the risk of autolysis is virtually nonexistent, unlike commercial ...


5

Sorry to say that looks like the beginning of a pellicle, meaning your beer is infected. But if you drink it quickly, you may avoid the worst of it. Best case, it might even taste good! And NEVER put that heater in your beer! Put the beer in a tub of water and put the heater in the water.


5

What you describe in your comments sounds like trub (pronounced "troob"). It's mostly yeast, proteins, fats, and sometimes hop material. It's totally normal for that stuff to settle to the bottom of the vessel after fermentation is complete. You don't filter it; you just let it settle and then carefully siphon the beer off while picking up as little of the ...


5

40 degrees is quite a bit lower than the bottom range for your yeast. I'd expect that they've gone pretty much inactive. But don't worry! All you need to do to reactivate them is to warm your brew back up to the optimal temperature and provide some gentle agitation. Be careful not to splash! As fermentation has already stated, you don't want to add any ...


5

If you didn't pitch yeast from an actively fermenting starter, 24 hours is a perfectly reasonable lag time. But if you really are seeing a thick kräusen atop your beer, it sounds like there's just a leak around the airlock. What are you fermenting in? A bucket with a lid gives plenty of opportunity for leaks around the edges. I'd be more concerned if it were ...


5

You actually have observed the most important sign of active fermentation, which is the kraeusen. Guarantee you've got a leak somewhere in your fermenter causing the airlock not to push. It's rarely worth judging the state of fermentation based on airlock activity anyway, as it's often very likely to lead you wrong. In conclusion: you're fine, do not chuck ...


4

You have the potential for oxidized beer. It may not happen, or if it does it may not be too bad. But the best thing to do would be to drink the beer soon, before potential oxidation has a chance to get worse.


4

I get the same kraeusen when using liquid yeast - it's not from hydration shock. In fact, the dead yeast that don't survive hydration simply fall to the bottom of the fermentor. The reason for the kraeusen is the constant churning of the wort during active fermentation, which mixes proteins, tannins and hop-alpha acids to create the structure for the ...


4

You can use the pressure from fermentation to transfer from the fermenter to a serving keg. First, you'll want a spunding valve on the fermenter to control the pressure by releasing gas after the target pressure has been reached. When fermentation is complete, pressurize the serving keg with CO2 to slightly less pressure than what's showing on the ...


4

I think what will end up happening is something like… After lag and reproduction, the yeast will start to ferment, and pressure will build up on the fermenting corny. This will slowly push still-fermenting wort into the second carboy, though perhaps following some of the trub that will have settled out first. At some point, the two cornys will reach an ...


4

I take it from the title that you added the priming sugar and bottled the beer, then put it in the fridge? If that's the case, you'll probably be OK. Just let the beer come up to room temperature and leave them alone for two weeks. Open one and see if it's carbonated. If it is, job well done. Relax and drink your beer. Otherwise, the yeast was knocked back ...


4

In the first stage of fermentation it could be some good. Yeast needs oxygen to the growth phase, when building membrane and other things needed to increase the cell count. When this oxygen is over, then the yeast can take its anaerobian way, and produce alcohol and carbon dioxide, which is needed for beer making. But if you shake your wort vigorously some ...


4

Temperature would be my first bet. You didn't mention what temperature you experienced during your primary fermentation. If your temperature was appropriate for the champagne yeast, then my next bet would be that your OG was not very high; therefore your yeast ate up what little sugar was present in a comparatively short time. Did you augment the bananas ...


4

It looks like the fermentation is complete, as the specific gravity has essentially stabilized. However, I'd leave it at 20C for another week at least to let the yeast clean up before cold-crashing. This is called the "conditioning phase", and can greatly improved the beer's flavour.


4

No you haven't. But, you should probably let it warm up to the recommended temperature, let it finish fermenting and then switch to fermenting ales for a while. It ought to still ferment fully and be drinkable, but it won't taste anything like what you might expect a lager to taste like. Lagers are really much more difficult to produce well than ales due to ...


4

For a typical 5% ABV beer, brewed between 16 and 20°C, allow 10-14 days for fermentation to stop, and few more days for the yeast to clear. But using bread yeast might get you a different result. Starting with about 10% sugar you would expect to get a 4-5% beer, but your yeast might have other ideas and quit before it gets that far. After the bubbling ...


3

It's best to remove the hops, but it's not a deal breaker if you don't. It will just make it harder to siphon the beer later. There are 2 other options to consider...you can put the hops in a nylon or muslin bag so that the entire bag can be removed later. Or after the wort has been cooled post boil, you can pour it through a sanitized strainer into your ...


3

Fermented beer contains somewhere around 0.8 volumes of CO₂. When you rack to secondary, you're certainly causing some (however minimal) agitation of the beer, which will cause some CO₂ to be released. You may also be changing temperature, which might cause some CO₂ to be released. And dry-hopping is going to give tons of nucleation sites for CO₂, which will ...


3

Yes, you need to dilute it. There is a mead calculator here: http://www.gotmead.com/2014-04-16-20-10-09/mead-calculator.html but it's a bit hard to use, so if you can't figure it out go for 1/4 to 1/3 honey by volume. There's another issue. Honey is basically just sugar, and yeast needs more than just sugar and water to live. You can either buy special ...


3

I'd just remove the lid and set it lightly on top, or cover the fermenter with foil or plastic wrap. Many breweries use open fermentation. Your will have a loose covering and the krausen will protect the beer. Resecure the lid once the krausen drops.


3

For this situation, you may want to consider yeast strains where extra phenol and ester production due to a stressful environment is considered a good thing in the final product. Typically Belgian yeast strains are more tolerable of stressful environments, in fact some brewers intentionally raise the temperature of their belgian ales in order to get the ...


3

If primary fermentation is complete, adding priming sugar only allows the wort to consume the newly added sugar; it doesn't continue to ferment afterward. In a 5gal corny keg, 4 oz of corn sugar will be sufficient. You must leave it at room temp (just like a bottle) for a couple of weeks. It should carbonate just fine. (Akin to cask conditioning). You can ...


3

The smack pack should have inflated in the six hours between breaking the nutrient seal and opening it. If it didn't, that's an indication that the yeast are not working at full strength. If you don't see any fermentation 48 hours after pitching, the yeast has almost certainly failed. Your beer is at the greatest risk for infection before the yeast is ...


3

There's basically no need to do a "secondary" fermentation. Time in secondary is just as good as time in primary. You can go straight from primary to bottling if you like, so long as fermentation has actually finished. Once the krausen falls further, and you get the same gravity readings over the course of 2-3 days, you can bottle straight away. However, ...


3

Hop residue will be a problem. Even if you use pellet hops, you will get clogs in the dip tube or valves when trying to purge the trub from the bottom of the keg. I know this from a disastrous keg-hopping experiment. You'll want to exclude hops when transferring the hot wort to the keg.



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