Hot answers tagged fermentation
Your options are: Leave it: You have already put the effort in to make the brew so I would say just leave it until it is ready to bottle. Buy a second fermenter: then transfer the remaining beer to it after it has been cleaned and sterilized. Fix the leak: Depending on the size of the leak you could try to stem the flow with either vasonline, tape it up, ...
Sounds like a vigorous, but otherwise normal fermentation. Rack to secondary, if that's your process, or leave it in the carboy for another week or two before bottling. The krausen residue on the walls of the carboy won't affect the final beer. In the future you might consider using a blow-off tube instead of an airlock.
In short: use the same amount of yeast. You should use the correct amount of yeast for 5 gallons, either split between the two cornies or added to the batch before you split it. Dry yeast packets have (more than) enough cells for a 5 gallon batch. Liquid yeast smack packs generally do not have enough cells for 5 gallons of wort, which is why starters are ...
I use bottled water frequently without any problems, so I don't think that's your problem. When you say fermentation stopped, are you basing that on a gravity reading or just observation? Fermentation can be continuing even if it doesn't appear that it is. The only way to know for sure is to take a gravity reading.
http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/ If you don't have time to make a yeast starter then just split it between the two. But you should look into making yeast starters. I started out using 1 gallon glass jar and shaking it. You need to make larger started but DME is cheap. If and when you get a stir plate started will be ...
Krausen itself will definitely fall back into the beer once fermentation finishes; you should see some residue/evidence, but you should only really see krausen while it's actively fermenting ("high krausen"). The trub/cake consists of a number of things: coagulated proteins, hop residue, other solids, flocculated yeast. 1084 is listed as a "medium" ...
The original Mr Beer has holes in the top half that let air out, there was no airlock. So you could have filled it higher than designed and with a vigorous fermentation some yeast leaked out. You can tape paper towels to the outside to see where the leak is, but if it's on top then it may be by design. if not, as suggested use "food grade" silicone. The ...
The test for acetobacter is simple: smell whatever's coming out of the airlock on your fermenter. If it smells like vinegar, you've got an infection :). For a fermentation in progress, there's only a couple of options. You could pasteurize the whole batch, which would kill off bacteria as well as the yeast, so you'd have to repitch your yeast. Another ...
Yes, you're fine. No, don't xfer to a secondary...at least not yet. You probably don't need a secondary at all. A lot of brewers have found that it's unnecessary. If you decide you want to xfer, give it at least 3 weeks in primary first. There's nothing wrong with leaving it in there that long.
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