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5

First, there is almost never a need to use a secondary fermenter unless you add something to the beer that produces a true secondary fermentation. The idea of using a secondary on a regular basis comes from the commercial brewing industry. The fermenters homebrewers use are far smaller and the risk of autolysis is virtually nonexistent, unlike commercial ...


5

Sorry to say that looks like the beginning of a pellicle, meaning your beer is infected. But if you drink it quickly, you may avoid the worst of it. Best case, it might even taste good! And NEVER put that heater in your beer! Put the beer in a tub of water and put the heater in the water.


3

For this situation, you may want to consider yeast strains where extra phenol and ester production due to a stressful environment is considered a good thing in the final product. Typically Belgian yeast strains are more tolerable of stressful environments, in fact some brewers intentionally raise the temperature of their belgian ales in order to get the ...


2

1) Do I raise after 3 days or some other amount? (Rule of thumb here as I'm not going to take gravity readings) Assuming you aren't taking gravity readings, therefor you aren't examining the apparent attenuation, your best bet is to wait until after high-krausen. This really depends on the gravity of the beer, what yeast your using (ale vs. lager, fast ...


1

Generally speaking, the amount of time for proper conditioning after completion of primary fermentation increases with the OG of the post-boil wort. It can also be dependent on beer style and personal taste. A low gravity (1.040's) ale can be ready in 2 weeks. A high gravity russian imperial stout can sometimes take 6 months to develop the flavors desired ...


1

I buy extract kits complete with instructions. All of the kits I bought say ferment for 2 weeks then bottle. Then condition 2 weeks in the bottle. (one exception being a pumpkin spice ale that required 8 weeks in primary). That being said, my blonde ales seem to like the 2 weeks just fine but the cream ale didnt really reach its prime until 3 weeks. This I ...


1

This has happened to many brewers before and does not mean your batch is ruined. More than likely, the peak of the fermentation activity has passed. You should clean your fermenter with a sanitized cloth on the outer areas where the spill occurred. Also re-clean and sanitize your air lock and lid or bung-stopper of your carboy or bucket, and reseal them. ...


1

I've found that if you don't cold crash your beer before siphoning it off, you'll want to let it sit for a day or two before siphoning it to ensure that all the trub at the bottom of the carboy/bucket has settled out. This means that if you didn't refrigerate your beer before siphoning to secondary or your bottling bucket, you'll want to move it to where ...


1

I don't think this question can be answered without more information: what was the final gravity? how much priming sugar did you add? what was 'the required time'? Probably the best advice is wait another week or two and then sample it again. I often find it can take several weeks after bottling for appropriate carbonation.


1

Beer yeasts use the Crabtree effect to undergo fermentation in the presence of (some) oxygen. On the other hand, bread yeasts prefer to undergo respiration rather than fermentation in the presence of oxygen. A byproduct of the TCA cycle is CO2-but not alcohol. If you limit your oxygen levels then you will get alcohol produced as the yeast will switch from a ...



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