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3

Hop residue will be a problem. Even if you use pellet hops, you will get clogs in the dip tube or valves when trying to purge the trub from the bottom of the keg. I know this from a disastrous keg-hopping experiment. You'll want to exclude hops when transferring the hot wort to the keg.


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I am not aware of such a guide, and I believe I would know if an authoritative guide existed. Opinions vary on each of these items, as it is a matter of what sort of aroma, flavor, or effect you are looking to achieve with any addition, as well as personal taste. For example, honey may be added to add sugar or for its flavor. Randy Mosher is a noted ...


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Cleber, I'm trying things very close to what you're thinking. I'm no chilling, fermenting, and serving on kegs. But I think an extra keg could be a good thing. If you have one, I think it is useful to transfer from the no-chill to the fermentor to aerate your wort. I'm doing this over pressure to ensure air contact. Otherwise you can aerate another way and ...


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Your mileage may vary... If it was my brew, I certainly would not give up on it (yet). I would gently set it out and let it settle for a few hours, then rack to another container, being careful not to pull anything (like glass) into the second fermenter. (Leave more than normal and make sure and use the diverter on your siphon.) Then you can triage the ...


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A cheesy smell usually means you have bacteria in your mash and they have access to oxygen. If this were a sour-mashed beer it would be considered a lost cause at this point. I don't know how this kit is supposed to work, but it's sounds like sanitation is the issue.


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The only issue I can see is potentially overwhelming the blow-off setup by sending in three primary fermentations worth of foam through one dip tube, since you indicate you'd set this system at the start of fermentation. Between the long, skinny dip tube and all the narrow passages through posts and fittings, I could imagine some of the really chunky first ...


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I imagine some flow of foam between kegs might be possible, but not necessarily bad. Almost a Burton Union system if done right. I would make sure that each keg has it's own relief valve (these are cornies, right?) and try to use clear tubing as much as possible, so you can see that foam is flowing and each keg is fermenting on schedule.


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I just realized that after fermentation is done, I will need at least an extra keg to transfer my beer out of the fermentors, anyway. My batches are of 3 kegs. So I will need to take an 4ยบ keg to transfer the first. After that, I could just drain and clean the emptys one by one and do the other transfers. So what I've done was to fill the 3 kegs with ...


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I think you could skip the CO2 & shaking in step 2: The bike pump should be able to make more than enough pressure to seat the seals, especially if they are well lubricated. The only question is whether air will go in fast enough. So maybe use a mountain bike pump, not not a road bike pump. The bubbles from the pump will do a more than adequate job of ...


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In general, the more character you want from your additions, the later you should add them. For the things listed in the OP, I would wait til fermentation has finished, then rack to secondary and add the fruits/spices there.



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