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10

'Is this possible that beer could be brewed up somehow with weed?' Sure, in the same way you can put any sort of anything in your beers, as long as you think it will taste good. But to answer the more important question: '[W]ould you get the effects of both beer and pot both?' It would very much depend on how you used it in the process. THC, ...


3

The major bitter compound in hops, the so-called alpha acids, aka humulone, is a terpenoid (derived from terpenes). The primary active ingredient in that "herb" you're smoking, the tetrahydrocannabinoids, are also terpenoids. Both Humulus lupulus (hops) and Cannabis sativa (marijuana) are, in fact, two genera in the family Cannabinaceae. It is entirely ...


3

It it dry or liquid malt extract? Dry malt extract will dissolve into the water, leading to a minimal volume change, whereas liquid malt extract still has a substantial portion of water, and will have somewhat like the volume change you describe, though I don't believe it's quite 1:1. In short, your boil volume should be the boil volume. With dry extract, ...


3

Yes, you use the wort you create by steeping as part of your boil volume. The method looks fine. I wouldn't worry about steeping efficiency. You won't get more than a few gravity points out of it unless you steep several pounds of grain. Also, be aware that not all grains are suitable for steeping. Some need an actual minimash.


2

Your recipe looks pretty good, but I agree with Sneftel. Add all of your LME to the beginning of the boil. There are chemical things (hot break, protein breaking down, etc) going on that require the 60 minute boil time. That said, you really ought to think about adding some adjunct grains to give your beer mouth feel and body (and color). Generally, ...


2

Yes you can. Simular to cooking with it It can have all the medicinal effects. There is a specific extraction that needs done, it's simple but I don't care to explain the how. As the question was only if it's possible. It's not like a hop addition, or dry hopping. That will only make a skunk beer.


2

You can kick up a fuss you'd be justified as it is not what you ordered. But, I'd just throw in some extra Dark Patent Malt and Roasted Barley, may be an extra .5lb of each to try and pull back the colour. Adding extra Roasted barley may lead to a more harsh bitterness, but adding more patent black should be OK. If you do nothing you should end up with a ...


1

A fellow turned me onto Brewtarget to help me calculate the specifics of my batches. It's also has some sample recipes to start with. Might help you.


1

I use The Recipator for estimating gravity, IBUs, and color. This tool provides general ranges for various styles, including IPAs. You should notice the style guidelines for IPA top out at about 7.5% ABV. If you want something a little stronger you'll need to add some extra fermentables and I'd recommend boosting the IBUs in the same proportion. (I.e., if ...


1

Another option is to make an ethanolic cannabis extract, then add it your brew. Assuming you're seeking the psychoactive effects of weed, not just the unique aromas that are often associated with it, Your process would look something like this: Bake the cannabis in order to convert the THCA into THC, and possibly CBN. Soak the weed in a neutral, ...


1

I believe this would be a protein rest, though the temperature is considerably lower than what I have heard before. John Palmer, in his excellent book, says to use a temp between 113 and 131 degrees. Here is the link http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-4.html. I have used this method quite a bit and seen a noticeable difference in the beer head ...


1

By my rough calculations it's about 1kg in 18 liters - to convert to units I can use my intuition with. This means you provided a bit over 5 Blg worth of fermentables by adding sugar. Not bad. I did more, on purpose. First thing, you just increased your ABV by about 2~3%. That's neither good or bad. Second, you didn't provide anything that usually goes ...


1

Your best bet is to add all your fermentables at once. The reason is that if you wait until your 7% beer has completed primary fermentation to add more yeast, you are adding that alcohol tolerant yeast to a hostile environment - one in which there is already a high level of alcohol present. Despite being bred as a "alcohol tolerant" yeast, it is still yeast ...


1

I would try to add saaz at the end of boiling (0 min) and dry hopping with more saaz 2 days before bottling. You could check hops characterists at hopunion: https://www.hopunion.com/saaz/


1

In the fermentables section, if you "Add Custom" you can indicate that a fermentable (extract) addition is a "Late Addition", but it does not seem to specify exactly when/how late that addition is; I imagine it means "near flameout". As such, it looks like it will account for bitterness changes. You should probably inquire with the Brewers Friend ...


1

I feel like you're putting too much emphasis on recipe, and not enough on technique. Happy yeast, and cleanliness, are the main differences between professional beer and homebrew. But I'll say two things about the recipe: What do you know about your extract? Is it intended for a strong hoppy beer? Holy crap that's a lot of hops! On to technique: Boil ...


1

Adding the malt extract at the very end of the boil is not going to go well, as there won't be any opportunity for the hot break proteins to denature and precipitate out. (Hell, it might not even sterilize properly.) And starting the boil with no extract is unusual, and likely to reduce hop utilization. Honestly, late extract additions are sort of a fiddly, ...


1

The alpha acids that give the bitterness from hops reach saturation somewhere around 90 IBUs. Since your hops were not exposed to the whole volume of beer (presumably they were filtered out at the of the boil) you aren't getting the full impact from them. It is reasonable to say that the IPA is actually 90 IBUs (saturation is around 90mg/L). Then divide by ...



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