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6

The only way to know is to look at the OG. LME has 36 ppg and DME has about 45. In the recipe you mention, the OG is 1.038 for 5 gal. and it calls for 6 lb. of extract. Assuming LME, 36*6=216. Divide by 5 for 5 gal. and you get 43ish. That's darn close to the OG listed and DME would make the OG even higher, so that particular recipe must be for LME. ...


3

Yes, you use the wort you create by steeping as part of your boil volume. The method looks fine. I wouldn't worry about steeping efficiency. You won't get more than a few gravity points out of it unless you steep several pounds of grain. Also, be aware that not all grains are suitable for steeping. Some need an actual minimash.


3

It it dry or liquid malt extract? Dry malt extract will dissolve into the water, leading to a minimal volume change, whereas liquid malt extract still has a substantial portion of water, and will have somewhat like the volume change you describe, though I don't believe it's quite 1:1. In short, your boil volume should be the boil volume. With dry extract, ...


3

Just for an alternative perspective on brew shops in your locality. Establishing a relationship with a good proprietor / staff will allow you to trade ideas / recipes / advice often at a similar price to online retailers; in fact, the kits I purchase tend to be cheaper if shipping is taken into account. Also good brew shops will often point you in the ...


3

All of these retailers are in competition with each other, which keeps margins and prices pretty low. The only way you might be able to squeeze out a better deal is finding an online retailer that is physically closer to you (to reduce shipping costs). And/or wait for clearance sales. Breaking out of pre-packaged kits will let you bulk order ingredients to ...


2

I also highly recommend a local homebrew shop. I find that the kits are cheaper when you factor in shipping. Another big plus is that the yeast comes straight from their fridge and into your fridge... no sitting out in the heat during shipping.


2

Your recipe looks pretty good, but I agree with Sneftel. Add all of your LME to the beginning of the boil. There are chemical things (hot break, protein breaking down, etc) going on that require the 60 minute boil time. That said, you really ought to think about adding some adjunct grains to give your beer mouth feel and body (and color). Generally, ...


2

Even if it was contaminated, as long as you plan on boiling it, it will be safe. If it was very spoiled (smelled bad), then it might have fewer sugars and the end result may taste bad. Otherwise, you should be fine.


1

Your best bet is to add all your fermentables at once. The reason is that if you wait until your 7% beer has completed primary fermentation to add more yeast, you are adding that alcohol tolerant yeast to a hostile environment - one in which there is already a high level of alcohol present. Despite being bred as a "alcohol tolerant" yeast, it is still yeast ...


1

I would try to add saaz at the end of boiling (0 min) and dry hopping with more saaz 2 days before bottling. You could check hops characterists at hopunion: https://www.hopunion.com/saaz/


1

I believe this would be a protein rest, though the temperature is considerably lower than what I have heard before. John Palmer, in his excellent book, says to use a temp between 113 and 131 degrees. Here is the link http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-4.html. I have used this method quite a bit and seen a noticeable difference in the beer head ...


1

In the fermentables section, if you "Add Custom" you can indicate that a fermentable (extract) addition is a "Late Addition", but it does not seem to specify exactly when/how late that addition is; I imagine it means "near flameout". As such, it looks like it will account for bitterness changes. You should probably inquire with the Brewers Friend ...


1

I feel like you're putting too much emphasis on recipe, and not enough on technique. Happy yeast, and cleanliness, are the main differences between professional beer and homebrew. But I'll say two things about the recipe: What do you know about your extract? Is it intended for a strong hoppy beer? Holy crap that's a lot of hops! On to technique: Boil ...


1

Adding the malt extract at the very end of the boil is not going to go well, as there won't be any opportunity for the hot break proteins to denature and precipitate out. (Hell, it might not even sterilize properly.) And starting the boil with no extract is unusual, and likely to reduce hop utilization. Honestly, late extract additions are sort of a fiddly, ...


1

The alpha acids that give the bitterness from hops reach saturation somewhere around 90 IBUs. Since your hops were not exposed to the whole volume of beer (presumably they were filtered out at the of the boil) you aren't getting the full impact from them. It is reasonable to say that the IPA is actually 90 IBUs (saturation is around 90mg/L). Then divide by ...


1

Did you do a partial boil and add more water afterward? If so, the problem is likely to be inadequate mixing. The wort is heavier than water so when you take a reading you get essentially "watered down" wort. It's nearly impossible to get them mixed thoroughly to get an accurate reading. But if you use all the ingredients and end up with the volume the ...


1

If the volumes are as you both computed and experienced, then there's not very much reason why an extract brew would be so far off the OG number. My guess is that the computer added in the results of "mashing" the crystal grains, crystal does not have any diastatic power. Without any base malt present, no converstion can take place. So your "mash" was really ...


1

There are a bunch of factors to consider here. To name a few: As you mention, zero to very little gravity will tend to increase the utilization rate as there will be less competitive inhibition from wort sugars. Boiling in water alone will mean a higher pH (as malt phosphates, even in extract brewing, would normally react with hardness in/added to the ...



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