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11

When I did extract I tended to just go from the tap right into the fermentor with the wort. I can't say that I ever had a bad batch because of it. But it certainly can happen. If you have a way to boil water for 15 minutes, then store it in a sanitary and sealed contain while it cools back down to a useable temperature...that is the safer way to go. If ...


9

When I did extract, we always used a jug spring water to top off the extra few gallons. You can sanitize the bottle mouth with some StarSan or other sanitizing solution, and then just pour the bottle in. You can also keep the jug in the fridge prior to use to cool your wort when you add it. This way you avoid boiling anything, but are still pretty safe from ...


7

Yes, it is OK squeeze. In fact, you want as much extract as possible from the specialty malts. It is a common myth that squeezing the grain bag is a bad idea due to "tannins being extracted" or similar. There is no reason for this to be true --- tannins are extracted from the grain (husk) only if the temperature during steeping/mashing is too high. And then ...


6

The sludge is mostly coagulated proteins, hop residue. A little bit is actually good for your wort, as it provides nutrients for the yeast. Too much might give the beer some slight off flavours. If you were to let the sludge into the fermenter, it wouldn't be the end of the world, but you'll make better beer if your exclude most of it. So, to answer your ...


6

The only way to know is to look at the OG. LME has 36 ppg and DME has about 45. In the recipe you mention, the OG is 1.038 for 5 gal. and it calls for 6 lb. of extract. Assuming LME, 36*6=216. Divide by 5 for 5 gal. and you get 43ish. That's darn close to the OG listed and DME would make the OG even higher, so that particular recipe must be for LME. ...


4

When I was extract brewing, that's exactly how I did every batch. I put 2 gallons of Poland Spring in the fridge, then added that to the wort that I cooled down to 120F or so in the sink. Really worked a treat, and still made great beer. As for inducing cold break, I can't say if it's better or worse than using an immersion chiller, but I definitely got a ...


3

Nope, at this level everything scales pretty linearly; double up!


3

It does not need to be 5.00000 gallons, don't worry about the small differences. You can aerate after pitching the yeast, so long as it's immediately after; the yeast need oxygen during the lag phase, but once alcohol starts being produced, you don't want to introduce oxygen at that point.


3

All of these retailers are in competition with each other, which keeps margins and prices pretty low. The only way you might be able to squeeze out a better deal is finding an online retailer that is physically closer to you (to reduce shipping costs). And/or wait for clearance sales. Breaking out of pre-packaged kits will let you bulk order ingredients to ...


3

Just for an alternative perspective on brew shops in your locality. Establishing a relationship with a good proprietor / staff will allow you to trade ideas / recipes / advice often at a similar price to online retailers; in fact, the kits I purchase tend to be cheaper if shipping is taken into account. Also good brew shops will often point you in the ...


3

Yes, you use the wort you create by steeping as part of your boil volume. The method looks fine. I wouldn't worry about steeping efficiency. You won't get more than a few gravity points out of it unless you steep several pounds of grain. Also, be aware that not all grains are suitable for steeping. Some need an actual minimash.


3

It it dry or liquid malt extract? Dry malt extract will dissolve into the water, leading to a minimal volume change, whereas liquid malt extract still has a substantial portion of water, and will have somewhat like the volume change you describe, though I don't believe it's quite 1:1. In short, your boil volume should be the boil volume. With dry extract, ...


2

With two pounds of base malt, and one pound of maize, you can certainly get away with 30 minutes and expect full conversion. Thats been the case in my experience, especially at 154F temps. The warmer the mash the faster things progress. And most flaked maize is pre-gelatinized, BTW.


2

As far as I understand, the hop utilization is affected by the specific gravity of the wort. E.g, the Daniels formula for calculating IBUs takes the boil gravity into account. My only source is this ppt :) Steeping grains does not substantially increase the gravity and should thus not affect hop utilization. According to Daniels, brewing with a boil ...


2

According to figures from the American Homebrewers Assoc. and retail groups, most homewbrewers brew with extract. All grain requires more time, equipment, and effort. Obviously, a lot of people feel it's worth it, but more people have constraints on time, money and space. For those people, extract is the only way they can brew.


2

You're making a real lager, so try to keep the temps as low as possible - around 50F/10C would be about ideal. (The fermentation will raise temperature this by about 6F/3C.) But if you don't and let it warm up, it will still be a lager - it's because of the yeast - S-23 is a true lager strain (Saccaromyces pastorianus). Lager yeast tend to produce sulphur ...


2

Those old Brew Your Own recipes are a little vague on ingredients, and hard to figure out. You have an added handicap of being in the Eurozone, it seems. Likely the 3.3 bs. of amber light extract is LME (because in the U.S. they sell it in 3.3 lb. cans and plastic milk jugs), and you can substitute a 1.5 kg can of Coopers Light Malt Extract or the Premium ...


2

You want to preserve the ratio of 2-row to Crystal 60L. Here is one simplified way to do the math. 2-Row has an average, theoretical extract yield of 1.036 specific gravity -- if you take the last two digits (36), you can express this as 36 gravity points per pound of grain per gallon of wort (PPG) at 100% efficiency. The recipe assumes a mash ...


2

You should boil the extract to kill off any nasties. (In reality it's probably not that big of a deal, since it should theoretically already be sanitary coming from the manufacturer, especially if it's canned liquid extract) The point of adding extract late is to prevent your wort from darkening. Boiling the extract for the full 60 minutes will cause the ...


2

Yes: you can add your own hops while boiling malt extract. It's not really a "step up" or a "step down". (Also, FTR, you almost never "boil" grain … you can either steep it or mash it, but it should not be boiled (unless you're talking about decoction mashing, but that's not what you're talking about).)


2

I always put the grain bag in a strainer and pour 2-4 quarts of 155-160f water slowly through the bag to remove anything additional from grains. This is the extract brewer's sparge equivalent. I've never read anywhere that squeezing was a good thing, but I have read from several reliable sources that it's a bad thing.


2

If you're using a Northern Brewer extract kit like this one, you should get pretty close to the OG if you fill your fermenter to 5 gallons. A good kit should account for some of the water evaporating away during the boil. It should also assume that some hop residue (trub) will be left behind in the boil kettle. The wort that you pour from the kettle into ...


2

You may also find that an immersion chiller does not have to be a major investment. Where I live, my ground water stays fairly cool year round. So a simple immersion chiller is all I need to cool 6 gallons in about 15 min. I just purchased; 20' of 1/2" ID soft copper tubing (in a roll), a 10' roll of 1/2" ID clear vinyl tubing, a connection for a garden hose ...


2

Even if it was contaminated, as long as you plan on boiling it, it will be safe. If it was very spoiled (smelled bad), then it might have fewer sugars and the end result may taste bad. Otherwise, you should be fine.


2

I also highly recommend a local homebrew shop. I find that the kits are cheaper when you factor in shipping. Another big plus is that the yeast comes straight from their fridge and into your fridge... no sitting out in the heat during shipping.


2

Your recipe looks pretty good, but I agree with Sneftel. Add all of your LME to the beginning of the boil. There are chemical things (hot break, protein breaking down, etc) going on that require the 60 minute boil time. That said, you really ought to think about adding some adjunct grains to give your beer mouth feel and body (and color). Generally, ...


1

I have never seen nor heard of an extract for sake.


1

You can add as much water as you would like. The only difference is what your Original Gravity (OG) starts fermentation at. If the recipe calls to top of the fermentor so you hit the 5 gallon mark, then the recipe is going to take that into account with the grain bill. If you want to make sure you're not diluting your mash, then take specific gravity ...


1

In general the kettle sludge from an extract batch isn't going to hurt things any. As long as you perform a strong healthy fermentation the beer will be ready for transfer faster than that sludge will significantly effect the beer. The hop part of sludge may contribute some more hop resin depending on when it was added to the boil originally. The larger ...


1

(1) As far as hops and other sediment (trub) in the kettle, it is fine to pour it all into the fermenter if you want to. Some will say that some of the coagulated protein can provide nutrients for yeast. It will all settle out during fermentation, and there is no evidence that it contributes to off-flavors. That being said, it is hard to allow oneself to do ...



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