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11

When I did extract I tended to just go from the tap right into the fermentor with the wort. I can't say that I ever had a bad batch because of it. But it certainly can happen. If you have a way to boil water for 15 minutes, then store it in a sanitary and sealed contain while it cools back down to a useable temperature...that is the safer way to go. If ...


9

When I did extract, we always used a jug spring water to top off the extra few gallons. You can sanitize the bottle mouth with some StarSan or other sanitizing solution, and then just pour the bottle in. You can also keep the jug in the fridge prior to use to cool your wort when you add it. This way you avoid boiling anything, but are still pretty safe from ...


7

Yes, it is OK squeeze. In fact, you want as much extract as possible from the specialty malts. It is a common myth that squeezing the grain bag is a bad idea due to "tannins being extracted" or similar. There is no reason for this to be true --- tannins are extracted from the grain (husk) only if the temperature during steeping/mashing is too high. And then ...


6

The sludge is mostly coagulated proteins, hop residue. A little bit is actually good for your wort, as it provides nutrients for the yeast. Too much might give the beer some slight off flavours. If you were to let the sludge into the fermenter, it wouldn't be the end of the world, but you'll make better beer if your exclude most of it. So, to answer your ...


4

When I was extract brewing, that's exactly how I did every batch. I put 2 gallons of Poland Spring in the fridge, then added that to the wort that I cooled down to 120F or so in the sink. Really worked a treat, and still made great beer. As for inducing cold break, I can't say if it's better or worse than using an immersion chiller, but I definitely got a ...


3

Nope, at this level everything scales pretty linearly; double up!


3

It does not need to be 5.00000 gallons, don't worry about the small differences. You can aerate after pitching the yeast, so long as it's immediately after; the yeast need oxygen during the lag phase, but once alcohol starts being produced, you don't want to introduce oxygen at that point.


2

With two pounds of base malt, and one pound of maize, you can certainly get away with 30 minutes and expect full conversion. Thats been the case in my experience, especially at 154F temps. The warmer the mash the faster things progress. And most flaked maize is pre-gelatinized, BTW.


2

As far as I understand, the hop utilization is affected by the specific gravity of the wort. E.g, the Daniels formula for calculating IBUs takes the boil gravity into account. My only source is this ppt :) Steeping grains does not substantially increase the gravity and should thus not affect hop utilization. According to Daniels, brewing with a boil ...


2

According to figures from the American Homebrewers Assoc. and retail groups, most homewbrewers brew with extract. All grain requires more time, equipment, and effort. Obviously, a lot of people feel it's worth it, but more people have constraints on time, money and space. For those people, extract is the only way they can brew.


2

You're making a real lager, so try to keep the temps as low as possible - around 50F/10C would be about ideal. (The fermentation will raise temperature this by about 6F/3C.) But if you don't and let it warm up, it will still be a lager - it's because of the yeast - S-23 is a true lager strain (Saccaromyces pastorianus). Lager yeast tend to produce sulphur ...


2

Those old Brew Your Own recipes are a little vague on ingredients, and hard to figure out. You have an added handicap of being in the Eurozone, it seems. Likely the 3.3 bs. of amber light extract is LME (because in the U.S. they sell it in 3.3 lb. cans and plastic milk jugs), and you can substitute a 1.5 kg can of Coopers Light Malt Extract or the Premium ...


2

You want to preserve the ratio of 2-row to Crystal 60L. Here is one simplified way to do the math. 2-Row has an average, theoretical extract yield of 1.036 specific gravity -- if you take the last two digits (36), you can express this as 36 gravity points per pound of grain per gallon of wort (PPG) at 100% efficiency. The recipe assumes a mash ...


2

You should boil the extract to kill off any nasties. (In reality it's probably not that big of a deal, since it should theoretically already be sanitary coming from the manufacturer, especially if it's canned liquid extract) The point of adding extract late is to prevent your wort from darkening. Boiling the extract for the full 60 minutes will cause the ...


2

Yes: you can add your own hops while boiling malt extract. It's not really a "step up" or a "step down". (Also, FTR, you almost never "boil" grain … you can either steep it or mash it, but it should not be boiled (unless you're talking about decoction mashing, but that's not what you're talking about).)


2

I always put the grain bag in a strainer and pour 2-4 quarts of 155-160f water slowly through the bag to remove anything additional from grains. This is the extract brewer's sparge equivalent. I've never read anywhere that squeezing was a good thing, but I have read from several reliable sources that it's a bad thing.


2

If you're using a Northern Brewer extract kit like this one, you should get pretty close to the OG if you fill your fermenter to 5 gallons. A good kit should account for some of the water evaporating away during the boil. It should also assume that some hop residue (trub) will be left behind in the boil kettle. The wort that you pour from the kettle into ...


2

You may also find that an immersion chiller does not have to be a major investment. Where I live, my ground water stays fairly cool year round. So a simple immersion chiller is all I need to cool 6 gallons in about 15 min. I just purchased; 20' of 1/2" ID soft copper tubing (in a roll), a 10' roll of 1/2" ID clear vinyl tubing, a connection for a garden hose ...


1

I have never seen nor heard of an extract for sake.


1

You can add as much water as you would like. The only difference is what your Original Gravity (OG) starts fermentation at. If the recipe calls to top of the fermentor so you hit the 5 gallon mark, then the recipe is going to take that into account with the grain bill. If you want to make sure you're not diluting your mash, then take specific gravity ...


1

In general the kettle sludge from an extract batch isn't going to hurt things any. As long as you perform a strong healthy fermentation the beer will be ready for transfer faster than that sludge will significantly effect the beer. The hop part of sludge may contribute some more hop resin depending on when it was added to the boil originally. The larger ...


1

(1) As far as hops and other sediment (trub) in the kettle, it is fine to pour it all into the fermenter if you want to. Some will say that some of the coagulated protein can provide nutrients for yeast. It will all settle out during fermentation, and there is no evidence that it contributes to off-flavors. That being said, it is hard to allow oneself to do ...


1

Alcohol comes from the fermentation of sugars. Fermentation is the process by which microbes (often yeast) transform sugar sources into ethanol (alcohol) The source can be anything as long as the sugars are indeed fermentable by the yeast being used. Distillation is the mechanical means by which alcohol is separated or purified from the solution that was ...


1

You're right - normally you'd store it cold so it can drop clear before packaging. With a wheat beer you don't want or need to do that, or at least not to the same extent. Note that in a wheat beer the haziness comes from both the suspended yeast and the protein in the wheat malt. It takes a long time for the protein to drop out - several weeks, and at ...


1

I don't think its really necessary to store beer before bottling. When the beer is done (another topic all together) its usually ready to go into the packaging phase. If you are observing best practices already with fermentation and the like store it to wait for something mysterious to happen isn't necessary. That said, a week in storage isn't going to ...


1

There's no need to split each grain into its own bag, unless you want to remove them at different time intervals for whatever reason (hint: you don't. ;) If they'll all comfortably fit in one bag, great. If not split them up. Maximizing water contact is … probably negligible, here.


1

Saflager S-23 is a lager yeast. http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFG_S23.pdf 9-22°C as it ferments 12-15°C when you lager the beer. http://billybrew.com/swamp-cooler-homebrew try doing swamp cooler to get that temp down and under control. Lager not recommended for someone starting out. If you can't control fermantion temperature then ...


1

First things first, stop checking on the beer. Leave it be for the next 10-14 days. Resist all urges to check on it or mess with it. The bubbling will probably stop in the next day or so and this is perfectly fine. After this 10-14 day period, get the fermentor as cold as you possible can for a few day. If you can't do this, don't worry to much. This step ...


1

You're right - maize doesn't contain any enzymes and needs to be mashed alongside a high Lintner grain, like the 6-row you've chosen. If the maize is pre-gelatinized, then you can just hit your target mash temp for the fermentability profile you want. For ungelatinized maize, you'll need to hold it at 170F for 15 mins to make the starch soluble and then ...


1

Measuring the water in your boil is completely based on the vessel itself. The marked stick works great, sight-tubes are wonderful, etc. You can determine your actual pre and post boil volumes as you said, by simply going with 50% volumes. The end water in the fermenter will be the weighted average temperature of the water added. i.e. If you have 2.5 ...



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