# Tag Info

7

I can understand your confusion - with potential, current, resistance and power all being defined in terms of each other, it's tricky to know where to start! An electric element is a resistive load, with constant resistance. Consequently, the power rating is given relative to the voltage across the element. Since we know the power and the voltage, we can ...

5

Without knowing your system, I can't give you specifics, but Arduino makes great microcontroller USB I/O boards in the \$25 range. You program the board through a USB interface using a language similar to C, so it wouldn't be hard to write a PID control program for temperature. You would need an interface to step the thermocouple voltage up to proper levels ...

3

For calculating heating element amp draw (as well as other useful things like water heating time), check out the Javascript calculator on my website. Now for your questions three: 1- Algebra Watts = Volts * Amperage is correct, but we need to go back a step to Ohm's law (Volts = Amperage * Resistance) to work this out. We can rearrange Ohm's law to I = V/...

3

I wouldn't go any hotter than a 4500 watt element for a 15 gallon brew kettle. While the temptation to put a bigger element in to speed up the process is great, consider that once the liquid achieves boil, you will end up with a very localized 'hot spot' right on the element that causes the liquid to boil VIGOROUSLY. That locally hard boil will cause the ...

3

If you're boiling 5 gallons or less on the stove top, then brewing indoors can be done using your regular kitchen setup, assuming you've got an extractor fan in the kitchen to vent all the water vapor. For partial boils, it worked well, but for full boils, it took a over an hour to bring the mash liquor up to temperature, and even longer to bring the full 5 ...

2

I use a 5500W reliance element for boiling 56L wort (ca. 15 gallons) on about 80% duty which gives a vigorous boil. This is the typical pre-boil volume for hitting 10 gallons packaged beer. The element uses a 1" NPS thread (although check carefully - there are also elements with 1-3/8" thread.) You can get 1" NPS locknuts at bargainfittings.com. There's a ...

2

You can buy off the shelf equipment that can do all of this. I have two plastic boilers that I got from the local homebrew shop, both have thermistors on the back to control the boil. A friend has got a fancier non-plastic electric boiler/mash tun, which he got from the same place. Have a look at The Malt Miller's equipment page, there is everything on there ...

2

The formula to determine wattage is as follows: Gallons * Temp Rise (F) ------------------------------------ * 1000 = Watts Required 372 * heat up time (hours) So, for a homebrew example of 7 gallons of wort at the beginning of your boil, and desiring to reach boil in 15 minutes, and assuming your wort temperature before boil is 150 degrees F after sparge ...

2

I suggest you build your own. There is a great how to build a heat stick thread on homebrew talk. I have heard that carmelization is not an issue using immersion heater elements. In order to provide enough heat for a rolling boil you will need 220 VAC and at least a 4000-5000 watt element I believe. Electricty is dangerous, so is propane. Make sure you ...

2

It's got to be the element going open at that temperature - 5500W is plenty of power (9 minutes!). I guess this a water heater element, designed to operate at 120F or so, it might even be a 'safety feature'. An inductive ammeter would answer that question very quickly.

2

The problem might be a thermocouple this is a hardwired switch that will cut the element out if the temp goes to high. this is a additional safety and is normally wired in series with the thermostat that normally switches of the element when it gets to the set temperature. this switch might be faulty, your local electrician might be able to fix it or maybe ...

2

you may want to ask this on the electronics stack exchange. but to answer this here. no, you cant replace a PT100 sensor, with a 1-wire temp sensor. PT100/1000 are analog sensors, 1 wire sensors are digital. as to convert a 1 wire, to an analog sensor, all depends on your knowledge of electronics, easy if you know a lot, hard if you dont know anything....

1

Sorry, the two are very different - to make a OneWire sensor look like a PT100 sensor, you'd have to find some way to recreate the resistance in the wire that varies with temperature, which is how a PT100 works. The simplest way to do that would be to use a real PT100 sensor - emulating a PT100 sensor would be much harder and most likely introduce more error ...

1

Does the Kettle have a thermal cut out switch wired in the circuit with the element? If this is the case the thermal cut out switch switches the element off each time it gets to a specific temp. this is a safety feature and can be bypassed by if you have some electrical knowledge.

1

I think you would have to make that adapter yourself. Water heater threads are usually NPS or standard threads where your SS fittings are NPT Pipe threads. Your best bet is to weld the correct bung or adapter into the keg side. I have seen 120V 1400+W immersion heaters that use o-ring style seals but will not heat as well as 220v elements. Another choice ...

1

What's your opinion on them? My opinion is that I have always worried about wort caramelization on the heating element. I wonder how hard that is to clean and does a poor cleaning job effect performance of the element. I would really be interested in an electric HLT, that I could set to a timer. That way I could have water heated to my strike temp before ...

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