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10

From the Wayback Machine, we can track the increase in price of both new and used kegs. NorthernBrewer.com is a good resource for this because they've been around so long. (And they deserve it. You guys rock!) April 2001 to May 2006: New $95.00, Used: $30.00 May 2009: New $120, Used $35 May 2010 - Unchanged at $130/$35 March 2012 (present) - $130/$45 ...


9

First, go to your living room. Trust me.... Flip over your easy chair and shake it all around. Trust me... Flip over your couch. Don't eat the crusty old cheetos that fall out. Trust me, I am not insane. Gather up the loose change. Unlatch the lid, the keg pressure will keep the lid closed. The wedge a penny under each foot of the lid latch, between ...


7

Well, do make sure the beer is cold before doing your pressurize and shake. The colder the liquid, the more CO2 it can absorb. Otherwise, you can't go much faster than you mention as far as I know.


7

Are you keeping it hooked up the whole time to the CO2? You will lose carbonation overtime as the carbonation in the beer will push the beer out of the keg when not hooked up to the tank. You can prime your kegs with sugar like bottling to carbonate. Treating the keg like one big bottle, but most people hook up the beer to a tank with regulator and force ...


4

Its probably from having too high of a humidity level in the fridge. I have this same problem in my fermentation fridge (develops darker spots of mold) and my keezer (no mold but moisture pools at the bottom of the freezer). I just make it a point to wipe out the excess moisture from the walls of these two whenever I am messing with beer. I have considered ...


4

Look into "spunding valves", either to buy or DIY. Often used for natural carbonation, but it could be used to control primary fermentation pressure, as you suggest.


4

I can't tell you how many times I've hooked up a picnic tap with it in the locked-open position :) But yes, it does sound like you overfilled the keg. That's the only way beer can come out the gas-in post. The gas-in diptube is quite short, but I still like to give it an inch or so of space just to make sure beer can't get back into the diptube. It will ...


4

Replacing the seals is usually a good idea. Seal Kits are inexpensive. A good how-to on replacing seals is helpful. The one tricky bit about o-rings is that certain types work best with certain kegs. This is especially true of the o-rings that sit between the dip tubes and the in/out ports. With the right o-rings, you really don't have to apply that much ...


4

That's about the fastest method I know of. But, I've stopped doing it. It might just be me, but I've found I prefer a slightly slower approach. I'll turn up the pressure for 2-3 days and let it sit in the fridge until at the right pressure. It might not make much of a difference, but the carbonation feels different in my mouth.


4

I've done just this for my last 30 batches or so. It's lovely, and I see no reason to go back. I fill the corny to the weld line, bubble some oxygen up through the liquid diptube, and then connect my spunding valve to the gas connect. The spunding valve is just a pressure gauge and an adjustable pressure relief valve attached to a 1/4" stainless tee. To ...


4

You should be OK. The connectors are not identical inside the keg. The beer out connector has a long tube to take it to the bottom of the keg. The gas in connector is open near the top of the keg. This is so the gas pushes the beer up the tube from the bottom. By reversing the posts you are effectively pushing the beer out the top of the keg by bubbling CO2 ...


3

You may be better off using corny kegs as a secondary fermenter. (If you transfer.) I use them as brite tanks, clarifying my beer a week before serving. There is no risk of krausen explosion You can naturally carbonate You can transfer to the serving keg under pressure No worry of clogging your dip tube Don't need to trim the dip tube. Most stories I hear ...


3

Ball lock tend to be the most available around my parts in MA. And like you said parts are easier to come by for these too. As long as you keep the fittings in good working order (i.e. clean them once in a while), they go on and off fairly easily. The only issue will ball locking posts is that its sometimes difficult to remember which on is the out and ...


3

6 months later and having used both king keg and corny keg there is one major point to add: Force carbonation with a corny keg comes the additional expense of a CO2 regulator but with this comes the capability to accurately control the pressure of CO2 on your beer and get the level of carbonation you want (something I struggled with previously). It was ...


3

Simple. Manufacturers need to recognize the demand. They may transition to just a homebrew offering, but where there's demand there's business to be had.


3

Real Ale, that's "beer brewed from traditional ingredients, matured by secondary fermentation in the container from which it is dispensed, and served without the use of extraneous carbon dioxide". (CAMRA) As homebrewers, we can emulate this by: Not pasturizing our beer...(ok that was easy!) preparing the corny for use as secondary/fining/dispensing ...


3

I think it should be fairly simple to adapt to corny kegs (in fact there is a picture of the fridge filled with corny kegs.) You have QDs for the kegs, so you have the connectors needed on the keg side. You also need hoses and connectors to connect the keg to the tower and to CO2: to beer in on the tower: push 6-10' of 3/16" beer line over the barbed beer ...


3

The current going prices for reconditioned kegs are closer to $60-70/ea on other sites, a bit less if you're willing to put up with cut handles or other minor deficiencies. $40/keg is a good deal. $12/keg is too good to be true. :)


2

It is really as simple as putting in some priming sugar and letting it go to "keg condition" for carbonation. In a true real ale situation you might rack from primary to keg when there is still <10% of the sugar remaining. In this case you are not adding any priming sugar. But there's nothing more to it than sealing the keg and getting the beer to ...


2

I think that most everybody who has kegged has had this happen, maybe just part of the learning curve i guess. I went to my local homebrew supply and got a check valve like joeFish was talking about (less then $10) and it puts my mind to ease, i think a new regulator is $60- $70 so well worth it. I put the check valve on the ball lock end with a small length ...


2

The local craft breweries in my area (Victoria, Canada) package their beer in 18.5 litre kegs fitted for Sankey couplers. (In fact, just today I picked up a keg of Driftwood Fat Tug IPA for the office keggerator.) I haven't looked for a brand stamp, but someone is manufacturing kegs that are the right size of home brewers. Surely the breweries will get rid ...


2

Small batch fermentor. Sanitizer holder for long items like racking canes, spoons and tubing.


2

I imagine the safest bet is to unscrew one of the posts and get the same kind of poppet as the one you've already got. It's hard to tell just looking at the top of the keg, so don't take this as certainty, but those keg posts look like firestone posts. I have pepsi kegs, with firestone posts, and use poppet nr. 1 from CHI. You can also narrow it down by ...


2

You have multiple effects at work here: For one, the carbonation is about absorbing CO2 into the beer. This process lowers the CO2 pressure in the keg. The second point is, that while cooling the beer and the tank, you make the beer able to absorb more CO2, while also reducing the volume of the gas - both in the keg and in the tank. That will lead to a ...


2

Its likely the decrease in perceived pressure as the tank is chilling in the fridge.


2

Don't pin it. This is a cask practice, but not necessary in your corny keg and will reduce the carbonation. In fact, you can prime it (fully sealed), wait 14 days, put it in the fridge and tap it in a few hours; the pressure built up during priming will let it flow, at least for a gallon or two. After which, if you can't put CO2 on it, prime it again and ...


2

I contacted CornyKeg.com, the people who created the video. They said that the video they created was erroneous and that static relief valves do not need to be replaced if they have been used. Here's a quote: I am not sure why that video is even on the internet anymore. Those static relief valves will reset and usable again. As long as they do not leak ...


1

I get the odd spot of mould developing in my keg fridge from time to time, particularly when switching between serving and fermentation temperatures. I keep a bottle of diluted bleach or sanitising solution in a spray bottle and give the inside of the fridge a good spray when raising the temperature of if I spot some mould developing.


1

This may not work for every keg, but I've had great success with "universal fit" poppets on my Cornelius and Firestone kegs. They take the guessing game out of finding an OEM part by picture on a website or catalog. Here's an example, this is one that I've used. http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_p/unipoppet.htm


1

You should be able to disassemble the connector. That slot at the top will take a medium-large flathead screwdriver. Just keep on eye on where the spring goes...



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