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3

As far as my intuition goes, the color is just as I would expect. Might be a bit more red, but within my expectations all right. You used not-so-pale pale malts, and a bit of amber, so you couldn't have brown nor yellow. And addition of floor-malted malt might have caused more brownish and less reddish tint to your wort. For clarity, it's also not ...


2

In first place it's very hard to get a blood-red beer. The beers that are said to be red are actually ruby, copper or reddish brown in color. Just to make it clear because you are probably aware of that. My favorite malt for red color is Roasted Barley (in very small amounts - maximum 2% of your grist). Munich is probably one of the best too, and Vienna ...


2

To expand on my comment above: For most homebrewers, unless you're willing to drop some serious money on lab equipment, your measurements will be mostly limited to weights, volumes and specific gravity (and pressure, if kegging). Most of the numbers you'll be dealing with outside these things will involve calculations based on a best-fit equations for most ...


2

The volume to use is the final volume you are aiming for in the fermenter; yes the post boil volume. Lovibond -> SRM °L = (SRM + 0.76) ÷ 1.3546


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My initial guess was the Campden tablet's SO2 was the culprit and hunting around for similar stories I found this on a home brew forum: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=267418 Observations in this thread would seem to fit with what you have experienced.


1

Did you consider the size difference of the container(s) the pictured? Homebrew will appear lighter in a smaller container and darker if shown in a large container. For example, a 3 gallon carboy and a 10 gallon carboy will look completely different even when they're filled with the same liquid.


1

All those answers above used to be the way to go. Since then, Best Malz has introduced Red X malt. It gives you the reddest color I've ever seen, especially if you use it as 100% of your grist.



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