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10

B-Brite is an active-oxygen-based cleaner, and these do a good job of making the item sanitary. While they are not classified as sanitizers, that is mainly because of the formal requirements and certification procedures, but in practice they can do a good job of sanitizing. I know people that use only ChemPro, Oxiclean and other active oxygen based cleaners ...


7

Do nothing. That lacing is the residue of the foamy, yeasty head (krausen) clinging to the sides of the jug. There's no need to reincorporate it. Just let the cider finish fermenting.


6

Out of my 12-13 brews I have almost always had condensation on the inside of the lid of the fermentation bucket. I have had a thermometer inside the liquid during fermentation, and one on the outside and it does differ quite a bit. Basically the fermentation causes heat => condensation. Totally normal!


4

The inward pressure is caused by the temperature of the air in the carboy being colder than the air outside and/or increases in atmospheric pressure - both will cause the pressure inside the carboy to be less than the pressure outside. This doesn't indicate that there is anything wrong with your brew.


4

Dry apple cider usually takes several months to a year in the bottle to smooth out. I would not concern myself much with how it tasted at 4 weeks. If you want a sweeter cider that is ready to drink in 4-5 weeks, take a look at my answer in this question: Sweet sparkling cider without pasteurizing, sulphites or lactose Make a "graff" which is a malted ...


4

I don't really agree with your pro and con list. Assuming you're able to calculate the right amount of sweet apple cider to add for priming, and this should be fairly simple arithmetic based on brix and volume, there's no real difference compared to adding table sugar or dextrose. I'd suggest you keep things simple and use sugar for priming. If you're ...


3

The combination of hydrometer and refractometer readings can be used to estimate the ABV % of a finished fermentation. See the section titled Measurement of ABV in this BYO article.


3

It's tasting like wine because there are almost no sugars left in the cider. With no sugar, you really notice the acidity in cider which makes it taste more like wine. (I would say it's more like white wine than, red, but that's subjective). You could try sweetening the it to see if that makes it taste more like cider, and less like wine. Buy a can of apple ...


3

Pectic enzymes and the polysaccharide that they break down, pectin, are naturally occurring in apples. To get them to break down your apples for juice, though, you would need to wait for the fruit to ripen to the brink of rotting. In your example, you would need to add pectic enzymes to the apples. The enzymes will break down the pectin and probably other ...


2

Yes. I've done this before with no ill effects. The apples will oxidize and turn brown over night but this doesn't affect the flavor of the juice. As long as you keep the pulp cool, no spontaneous fermentation will occur. I kept mine at a controlled 32 F., but anywhere below 50 F. should be fine for overnight.


2

I don't think that it will change from wine taste to cider taste. I have done the same thing using Lalvin EC1118 yeast which turned out to taste like wine. What is happening is the yeast had eaten all of the sugars in the cider giving it a higher alcohol content and the wine taste. If you used a different yeast then some of the sugars would have been left ...


2

I think it should be fine. Relax, don't worry, have ... some cider?


2

The preferred choice of pears for making cider (or "perry") are collectively known as "perry pears". 'Abate Fetel', AKA 'Abbé Fetel', does not fall into this group. Abate Fetel is commonly described as "more sweet" than many other varieties, and because of this it is popular as one to eat rather than use for cider. The bitterness you tasted is more likely ...


2

The best way to increase the ABV of cider is to add more fermentables to it. Table sugar is most commonly used, although you can also use things like honey, agave syrup, etc.


2

Everything is fine. Apple juice is almost entirely fully-fermentable sugar; there's no real reason to add more sugar unless you want more alcohol. If you do add sugar, though, you should probably dissolve it either in the juice itself or some water, before adding it. Only 8 hours into the fermentation, you could probably get away with gently swirling the ...


2

No reason why not. It's just cider. Though the lees will give you some weird flavors. And bad gas.


1

The last time I had trouble with bottle conditioning, I agitated all of the bottles just a little bit. I picked up each bottle, tilted it to the horizontal, gave it a half-turn, then put it back into the box where I keep my bottles. In a few more days I had good carbonation.


1

It's unlikely that a coarse filter like a dish towel would remove all the yeast from the perry, but it could have removed enough to slow fermentation down. The other possibility is that there's lack of yeast nutrient, which would also cause slow fermentation. The first thing you should try is waiting longer. Keep the perry in a warm (~700 F.) place. Give it ...


1

Did you sanitize the kitchen cloth you use to filter? I always do the filtering when passing the wort to the primary because is easier and always with sanitized equipment. Next time try adding sugar to the whole beer (in the fermenter) instead to each bottle.


1

The safest thing, though it's a bit of additional work, is to sweeten the cider in the glass. Put an ounce or two of concentrated apple juice in the bottom of your glass before pouring a bottle of cider. This technique adds a fresh apple taste, doesn't introduce any artificial sweetener off flavours, doesn't involve chemical stabilizers, and has no risk ...


1

Any fermentable sugar you add will convert to alcohol and in turn create CO2. Any non-fermentable sweetner is a gamble on off flavors. A suggestion would be to allow it to finish dry, add a dose of potassium sorbate to prevent refermentation, add a tested amount of apple juice concentrate to your liking for sweetness, keg and force carbonate the batch. ...


1

If you take gravity readings, you'll notice that the final gravity is extremely low. Cider is notorious for fermenting very low, and you're adding to it by tossing in sugars which are 100% fermentable (meaning that 100% of the sweetness will ferment out). The reason it is "watery" on your palette is because there is no sweetness. I'd be willing to be you ...


1

My question is answered in the comments. I failed to compensate for the alcohol on the final refractometer reading. The answer is that the cider is done fermenting, having finished at around FG = 1.002. (For some reason I was mentally confusing wort correction factor that applies to beer but not fruit juices, as researched by Sean Terrill, with correction ...


1

Sad to say, but without gravity readings we know nothing. Bubbles are strongly correlated to active fermentation but no guarantee that it is of significant measure. That said, some buddies of mine who do cider give ridiculous cycles, up to and past five months IIRC.


1

All my ciders ferment dry, at or less then 1.000. Your temps need to be at least in the mid 60F for fermentation to continue. Once that is complete, the yeast will drop out over a month or so or you can use any number of finings to help it clear. I age my ciders for a year before bottling, age will make them smoother and I have found that the apple flavors ...


1

The sugar in apple juice is almost entirely fermentable, so most ciders finish fermenting with a specific gravity near 1.000. If you used a wine yeast, you can expect a very dry finished cider. Ale yeast flocculates sooner, and can leave some small amount of residual sugar. Regardless, your gravities are high enough that I'd say your cider is not done ...


1

The process of freeze distillation exploits the difference in freezing points of water and ethanol. Wikipedia has a good article that explains the process. The short explanation is that the frozen portion of the liquid has a lower concentration of alcohol than the liquid portion. By removing the ice, you can thereby increase the concentration of alcohol in ...


1

The test for acetobacter is simple: smell whatever's coming out of the airlock on your fermenter. If it smells like vinegar, you've got an infection :). For a fermentation in progress, there's only a couple of options. You could pasteurize the whole batch, which would kill off bacteria as well as the yeast, so you'd have to repitch your yeast. Another ...


1

You are too optimistic regarding your schedule. It's unlikely that fermentation will be finished in a week. Let the cider make the schedule, not the calendar.


1

Alcohol (ethanol) freezes at -114°F (-84°C) so you could freeze-distill the beer which will freeze the water, but not the alcohol, so you can separate out the alcohol and measure that. Although I believe you have to do this slowly for the alcohol to separate out, so I don't think it's workable in practice. The freezing point of beer is related to ...



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