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6

This will not work with a tea-bag or any other kind of cloth. Unless it's enclosed in a very fine membrane the yeast would easily be able to get through, then disperse and propogate in the main liquid. However, something like this can actually be done. Some homebrewers have taken a high-technology cue from industrial beer and do what's known as an ...


5

start with sterile carboy airlock funnel and cold pressed Apple cider. Don't use anothing that has preservatives in it. Pitch in a camden tablet per gallon of juice to kill any un-identified bacteria or yeast. Let sit for 24 hours. Then pitch in some champagne or cider yeast. Watch it ferment. Save some 2litre bottles in the meantime. When the brew is done ...


4

I don't really agree with your pro and con list. Assuming you're able to calculate the right amount of sweet apple cider to add for priming, and this should be fairly simple arithmetic based on brix and volume, there's no real difference compared to adding table sugar or dextrose. I'd suggest you keep things simple and use sugar for priming. If you're ...


3

A couple of things First, the "funky bittery, acetone-ish" flavors are most likely fusel alcohols that yeast likes to throw off when it's under stress. One way to prevent this is to make sure it has enough nutrients (particularly nitrogen). In the mead world, this is usually resolved with the addition of nutrients such as Fermaid K and diammonium phosphate ...


2

I was very excited to see what the community had to offer for this problem as I am in need of a cardboard box replacement as well. Unfortunately, it appears that www.cwcrate.com is out of business. Therefore, I continued to search for a solution. I found the following sets of plans to make wooden crates: set 1 -- enclosed box: these look really nice, ...


2

Everything is fine. Apple juice is almost entirely fully-fermentable sugar; there's no real reason to add more sugar unless you want more alcohol. If you do add sugar, though, you should probably dissolve it either in the juice itself or some water, before adding it. Only 8 hours into the fermentation, you could probably get away with gently swirling the ...


2

The best way to increase the ABV of cider is to add more fermentables to it. Table sugar is most commonly used, although you can also use things like honey, agave syrup, etc.


2

I think it should be fine. Relax, don't worry, have ... some cider?


2

Probably nothing to worry about. As the yeast drops out of suspension, the perceived colour becomes darker, as less light is reflected by the yeast. The yeast in the darker batch is likely dropping faster than the lighter batch. Give them a few weeks and the colours should be the same.


2

If you carbonate it, that carbonation should give it a perceived fuller body. Aside from that, you could try adding some grape tannin or some acid blend, as those should help it feel fuller and more complex. Here's a pretty decent primer from the Norther Brewer on basic cider making that covers these points in brief: ...


2

No reason why not. It's just cider. Though the lees will give you some weird flavors. And bad gas.


2

4 days of fermentation is a very short amount of time for a cider. Let it go. Add yeast nutrient if you can acquire it, ideally something with both general yeast nutrients (yeast hulls, vitamin B) and DAP. Cider does not really have all the things yeast wants to be healthy, and needs additional nutrients. Look in to "staggered nutrient addition" if you want ...


2

Your cider is very young to draw many conclusions. In my experience, you have to think of cider more like wine than beer. Give it another 6 months of conditioning and it should taste better. You can add lemon, acid blend, grape tannin...a lot things to "liven it up". Start with a small amount, taste and adjust. But above all, give it time.


1

If you freeze and add sugar later ... remember that it could start to ferment again.


1

I think the initial fermentation failed to start for two reasons. First, you didn't pitch enough yeast. An 11g packet of dry ale yeast is intended to ferment 5 gallons of beer. So your 1 gallon jugs should have each received a little of 2g of yeast. Secondly, the ambient temperature was at the bottom end of the range for that yeast. Cold temperatures lead to ...


1

It could be oxidation causing the color change. This can happen if the cider is sloshed/splashed during transfers after fermentation is complete.


1

You don't mention specifics of sanitation in your description above, but you do mention the "warming" of some of the raw juice to desolve extra sugar. This implies that the rest of your raw juice was not warmed. Was all of the raw juice ever boiled to remove the natural yeast and other fawna from the skins? If not, your medium sherry might be the result ...


1

You absolutely should have an airlock on your barrel. This allows fermentation to continue (fermentation halts under enough pressure). You will want to check the taste every month at minimum to see if it's too oaky. New barrels (barrels not previously used for whiskey or wine or anything) will impart much more oak flavor into your brew, so make sure you ...


1

In order to overcome the effects of the preservative you need to pitch more yeast than in a preservative free situation. Normally if you are pitching one packet of yeast I'd say do too. Having a good sized pitch of active yeast is a great idea too. You can start some liquid yeast in malt extract and 24-26 hours later pitch the whole thing. Its not ...


1

Your success will be affected mostly by the health of the yeast in the cider. If the yeast are healthy and vibrant, the added sugar should ferment quickly. If the yeast are less healthy, there may be a long delay before fermentation starts, it may proceed slowly, or it may even not start. The primary contributor to yeast health is age. How long has it been ...


1

I don't think you will have any issues with it. If you are concerned about sanitation you could always make a syrup by boiling the sugar with water, letting it cool then throwing it the cider. You could always just throw in without. I'm a pretty big sanitation Nazi, but when I make cider, i just throw in simple white sugar straight from the bag, and when i ...


1

The S04 yeast strain is notorious for dropping out with a temp drop. You have warmed it back up which is good. Now you need to rouse the yeast back into suspension. Either through some shaking or gently stirring if you can get a long enough implement into your fermentor. A little yeast nutrient/energizer would help too.


1

Sounds like the yeast failed. additives: Pectolase, nutrition salts, 2 table spoons campden powder all added 2 days earlier Do you mean that these were added two days prior to pitching the yeast? Two tablespoons seems high to me. I often add no sulphite, it the apples were in good shape before pressing. Otherwise, I add one Campden tablet per ...


1

The apple juice might have some viable wild yeast present, or it may be yeast from the air inoculated the juice. Wild yeast has a low alcohol tolerance which it probably why your cider has been weak. You'll get better, more consistent results by adding cultured yeast. Champagne yeast is fine choice, if you like your hard cider without any residual sweetness, ...


1

Is it possible the barrel was previously lined with pitch? If so you might consider not using it. Pitch seals the wood and blocks the wood character from effectively aging the beer, as well as reducing porosity that contributes subtle oxidation and the development of microorganisms (all are primary reasons for barrel aging). Plus who want chunks of unknown ...


1

No. It can take longer to ferment, but in general the slower colder fermentation will result in a better tasting cider. I have used a few cider yeasts that ferment at a hotter temperature and they tend to give a bit of a sulphur taste. Now even if I use that particular yeast, one the fermentation has started to roll, I drop the temperature down to the lowest ...


1

Another common method would be freeze concentration, where you partially freeze the finished cider, and remove chunks of ice, concentrating alcohol and unfermentables in the remaining liquid.


1

What kinds of apples are you using? You could use additives to fix a batch but it's better to start out with a blend of apples good for making cider. Newtown Pippin makes a good single variety cider. My current batch on tap is a blend of Newtown Pippin, Black Twig, and royal gala. I split the batch and fermented it with two different yeasts. Half was ...


1

While these are nice lists I would like to point out that you do not need a 5 gallon bucket and carboy. I like to experiment with new recipes using a two gallon bucket and an old one gallon apple cider jug. Cheap, easy, and provides 8 bottles of beer in much less (brew day) time than a five gallon batch.



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