Hot answers tagged carbonation
9
TAKE THE STOPPER OUT! THIS IS A SERIOUS ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN!
Unlike glass bottles, glass carboys are not designed to hold pressure.
4 tsp in 1 gallon will produce about about 2.4 volumes of CO2. The pressure created will be significant - at a minimum 22 PSI, but likely more than that, since fermentation proceeds quicker than the CO2 will dissolve, ...
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This does sound like dangerous advice, unless they also tell you at which specific gravity to start bottling. If you bottle to early, you could get bottle bombs, and too late you get flat beer.
If you bottle at a SG close to the expected final gravity then you can reduce the chances of the above from happening. If you were going to use priming, sugar, for ...
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Not in my experience. I did a test where I used corn sugar, cane sugar, brown sugar, honey and DME (maybe even something else) and also force carbonated a split batch. After 2 months of conditioning, none of the tasters in a blind test could distinguish one from the other, and no one exhibited a preference for any one method.
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Recently fermented beer will have co2 still dissolved from fermentation at atmospheric pressure - ca. 14.5psi. The amount dissolved depends upon temperature, which is why priming calculations always ask for the fermentation temperature to estimate how much co2 is in the beer already.
When you add the sugar to the keg, the granules of sugar have a high ...
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If you repeat the measurement a little later or after more shaking and the head pressure is still the same then you have achieved equilibrium and you can assumption about the volumes based on measured temp and PSI are indeed correct.
If the pressure has dropped then the beer is still absorbing CO2, add more and keep going.
BTW: This is the coolest thing I ...
4
A table like that will show you the volumes of CO2 when the beer and headspace have reached equilibrium. If you only had the beer pressurized for a couple hours, the CO2 may not have fully dissolved.
If you check the pressure later and it's stable at 22.5 PSI, that means it's at equilibrium (and has about 2.7 volumes of CO2). If the pressure has gone down, ...
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Go ahead and use table sugar -- it'll work fine to carbonate your beer.
However, 250g seems high to me. This online calculator suggests that 4.6 oz, 130 grams is the right amount, assuming 12 oz bottles.
Your main concerns when adding the priming sugar are sanitation and proper dilution/distribution. If you don't ensure that the priming sugar is properly ...
3
If it was me I would let the beer finish out completely. Till the gravity reading stabilizes at what it was specified in the recipe. Then I would use the information from Palmer's book to determine how much priming sugar to add:
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html
If you don't add priming sugar you most likely will end up with flat or ...
3
You simply need to stop the flow out of that end of the coupler. Pretty much anything you dream up that will connect with 7/8" 14 thread will work. If you have a local fitting place, ask for a cap nut, or acorn nut with that threading and you will be good to go. A search on eBay for "7/8 14 nut" had a few that fit the bill for under $5.
A note of safety: ...
3
Pasteurize your bottle product after you've added the sugar for sweetening. Place bottles in a 165F water bath for 20 minutes. That will inactivate any yeast in the bottle.
This will produce a still cider obviously.
If you want carbonation, you can experiment with opening a bottle every day until the carbonation is good. Then pasteurize as described ...
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"We want to made sweet low ABV cider" - Then you don't REALLY want to ferment straight apple juice. I would recommend making a "Graff", which is a low-ABV "malted cider". Basically its a cider that uses ale yeast and a small portion of malt extract to add some unfermentable sugars and to round out the flavor.
Here's a great read on it: ...
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Priming sugar amount depends on carbonation level, that is
Total carbonation = CO2 already in beer + CO2 from priming sugar
CO2 already in beer depends on the temperature you bottle at
CO2 from priming sugar is proportional to amount of sugar used
Total carbonation is expressed in volumes (Vol) and depends on beer style.
You can find all this taken ...
2
Other options include:
filtration. This technique has the disadvantage of removing some flavour along with the yeast.
addition of potassium sorbate and sulfite. This one adds some undesirable flavours.
For these techniques, you'll need to carbonate mechanically from a CO2 task, as the yeast have been disabled.
2
I use lactose, and I think it is one of the easiest solution. All natural sugar will be convert into alcool. And you will have sparkling cider by adding a little more sugar before bottling. Lactose will give a good taste (not like splenda). You can put 1kg of lactose for around 23L of cider.
The only problem is that lactose is not cheap (around 10$ for 1kg) ...
2
If you can siphon off rather than pour, then you should be fine with this, assuming it's a beer you plan to drink over the coming weeks rather than leaving it to age for many months.
As with any transfer, there's a chance of contamination and oxidization. You can mitigate the first by sanitizing thoroughly, and the second, by avoiding splashing during the ...
2
I do this too for some beers when I'm in a hurry. By using 30psi your friend is getting CO2 into the beer quickly - the higher pressure and shaking helps the CO2 enter the beer faster than it does with the usual "hook-up and leave" method. If the beer is at room temperature, then you typically don't overcarbonate because the saturation point at 30psi is ...
2
The simple rule is: for the same amount of CO2 in the keg (not significantly adding/taking away) then higher temperature means lower dissolved volumes of CO2.
Q1. No, It will not be overcarbed. If anything it will be undercarbed depending upon how long it has been at room temperature - it takes few days for the CO2 to come out of solution. (warmer=less ...
2
The amount of time carbonation takes can vary. 1 week is a very short time and I'm not too surprised by the result you found. Make sure to store the bottles around 70F to speed thing up. As to the off flavor, there's no way we can tell unless you can describe it better. Take a look at this How to Brew troubleshooting
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Carbonation is indeed a by-product of fermentation, the yeast will consume sugar and produce alcohol and co2.
Some yeast strains will consume more sugar before the alcohol concentration gets too high and they go into 'hibernation' (floculate and settle to the botton).
Lower temperatures will also cause some strains of yeast to floculate and stop ...
2
The most common methods of carbonating your beer will not offer differing flavor profiles, but there are exceptions.
When force carbing, your only addition to the beer is the gas itself, CO2.
When using corn sugar, your addition to the beer is 100% fermentable, so the CO2 gas your looking for is created, with no sweetness (or flavor) left behind.
The ...
2
These are very thick bottles. While I wouldn't let them pressurize forever, if you keep them cold, wear leather work gloves, and bring them outside in a bucket of ice water, you should be able to open them safely (and messily). I also recommend using safety glasses.
For safety (and cleanliness) reasons, I wouldn't try to save them. You might be ok if you ...
1
Yes, you are correct. Without some other source of C02, the beer will lose pressure as the level drops, and it will stop coming out of the keg altogether soon.
Can you post a link to the "5 gallon plastic keg with tap" in question? I can't imagine why anyone would sell a keg that can't be charged, and I've never heard of a 5gal plastic keg vessel either. I ...
1
Yes rinse aid could be the problem here but before we jump there I think you need to wait a bit longer. After six days there is a slim chance your beer isn't even fully carbonated yet.
What I've found is that it takes a at least a week, but usually two to actually develop a nice tight head. For a while you may have OK carbonation and loose big bubbles that ...
1
Rinse aid could be the culprit, the main killer of head however, is oils, any oils. My first extract kit did not have noticeable head either, and a lot of my beers now, still don't have head, because I'm focusing on the body.
This that can help help are carapils/carafoam speciality grain, but these should be used to make beer better, not as a focus point.
...
1
The profile sounds reasonable, apart from just 1 week before racking. Given your substantial SG (1.079) You want to leave the lager to get to within 3/4 of your final OG. I wouldn't rack until it hits 1.022, and for at least 2 weeks.
You can then rack to secondary, and be sure there's enough yeast to finish off the job.
You'll have plenty of yeast either ...
1
It says it in the article
Wine yeasts are engineered to generate less CO2,
So, according to it, for the same amount of alcohol produced (and fermented sugar), bread yest will generate more CO2 than wine yeast.
I am not an expert, so I do not know if the statement is correct or not. Fermentation chemical reaction is
C6H12O6 → 2 C2H5OH + 2 CO2
In ...
1
You might want to continue to wait or gently rouse the yeast into suspension. I made an Irish Red a couple of months ago that had the same problem. I gently rolled each bottle on its side and placed them back into the box. I checked them again in 3 weeks and they were starting to show signs of carbonation and by the next week after that they were fine. As ...
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Pressure will attempt to equalize. By that I mean if you have one container with PSI of 10 and a PSI of 15 in another, then pressure will become 12.5 in both containers. In doing so, the contents (beer) will end up traveling to the vessel of lower pressure (the CO2 regulator) from the vessel of higher pressure (the keg).
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Beer will come out of the gas line when both of these conditions occur:
The pressure in the keg is higher than whatever's on the other side of the gas line.
There is beer in the gas dip tube or post (either because you've overfilled the keg or because the keg was shaken or lay on its side).
I once over-filled a keg such that the gas dip tube was partly ...
1
To get the bubbles you want, you'll probably have to rely on yeast attenuation. Get a low attenuating yeast so that it stops fermenting when there's still a decent amount of sugar left. When bottling, add some more sugar to wake them up and carbonate the bottles.
If you want more sweetness, use a non fermenting sugar like lactose or splenda. I use ...
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