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8

weigh your priming sugar, don't measure the volume boil it in just enough water to dissolve it for a few minutes pour that sugar syrup into your bottling bucket rack the beer onto the sugar mixture give it a couple gentle stirs with a sanitized spoon That works for me. Hopefully it will work for you, too!


6

My experience has shown that going through the beer out line doesn't change the rate the beer carbs up. Whether using the 'set and forget' process, or the high PSI and shake method. The bubbles coming out the bottom really aren't increasing the surface ratio enough for it to be significant. The bubbles just rush up to the surface. The downside to the ...


5

It's probably just too cool. I had lots of problems with carbonation when I left my bottles in my 65-70 degree basement. In fact, I had one batch where the bottles on the concrete floor did not carbonate but the ones sitting on top of those, off the floor, did carbonate. Eventually, I started putting them in the laundry room on a shelf above the dryer, where ...


5

Let's separate this out into two phases: carbonation and dispensing. Carbonation inside a keg can be done just like carbonation inside a bottle: by the addition of a specific amount of sugar, which will be fermented by the residual yeast, which will create a specific amount of CO₂, measured in "volumes". With external CO₂, however, you can also "force ...


4

You're on the right track, but DME is around 80% fermentable, so you wouldn't get much residual sweetness. Using a blend of lactose and sucrose (table sugar) might work. The sucrose will ferment producing a small amount of alcohol and carbon dioxide. The lactose will not ferment and will provide residual sweetness. You could also try an artificial ...


4

You might just need more time. I usually let mine go for 7-10 days total before. 5 days seems a little short to me even with your 30PSI upfront charge.


3

If you saw a beer head during the 2nd fermentation, you likely just let the beer get too cold. Ales tend to like 70F+ bottle fermenting conditions. You can tell if your beer's yeast has died by the foam created when mixing in sugar. The reaction will always create alcohol and CO2. The reaction creates bubbles, which make the foam during fermentation. ...


3

For what it's worth, I usually set mine at 40psi for 24 hours, then 20psi for 24 hours, then 10psi for 24 hours, and fine tune from there. I usually serve at about 8psi. Naturally, I pour myself a pint at each interval for quality control purposes. ;)


3

Be patient. It will carb, it will just take longer. Wait another week or so, then start sampling to see if it's carbed yet.


3

The beer inside a keg should (and virtually always will) be fully fermented and carbonated if you're dispensing it. This is how beer in a commercial keg comes. In the situation I think you're referring to, CO2 or a pump is simply used to add/maintain enough pressure within the keg to push the beer out and into a glass. CO2, when applied at the right ...


3

Your general understanding is pretty much spot-on. I think the thing to consider here is that your reasoning assumes that half or a third of the priming sugar is meant to yield the same amount of carbonation as it would in the bottle. I'd argue this isn't the case. Notice how recommendations like this keg-underpriming 'common wisdom' usually don't go so far ...


3

Commercial kegs in distribution, either in transit or in waiting to be put on tap in bar are … exactly the situation you describe. It will be just fine. You don't really need to add any additional headspace pressure over the pressure to reach you intended carbonation level. Hop flavors fade over time, of course, but that's unrelated to your question.


3

It will be absolutely fine. Drink and enjoy. By dropping into the fridge so early you just caused the yeast to stop their work. By removing it and allowing it to warm you have restarted the fermentation. You could happily leave it out of the fridge for a few months and so long as the bottles can handle the pressure that could build you would have no issues. ...


3

Beer needs to be warmer when you bottle condition. This allows the yeast to work hard at getting the priming sugar into CO2. However, too warm and the beer will stale faster. I recommend moving the box to a cooler area of the house (like a cupboard that is not against a wall that gets direct sunlight). DO NOT COOL THE BEER! Leave it for two weeks, then put ...


3

It depends on how your system is configured, mainly on the length, inner diameter, and material of the liquid lines. This article explains it better than I could. Most home draft systems seem to settle in somewhere between 8 and 12 PSI. You don't need to turn off the gas. There is only so much CO2 that will dissolve into the beer at a given temperature and ...


2

I suspect it has to do with the ratio of liquid volume to gas (head) volume. When bottling each bottle has a certain amount of headspace, while when kegging the amount of headspace relative to the liquid vloume is much smaller since there is only one vessel. Now, I am not talking about the speed of carbonation, just the final result (the equilibrium): ...


2

The carbonation process shouldn't matter with respect to your altitude. Inside your keg is a closed system. So the same rules of temperature and pressure applied will get you the same volumes of CO2. The rate at which the beer 'de-carbs' in the glass IS effected by your altitude however. So if you find that the beer is getting too flat to quickly, well ...


2

I would assume higher pressures aren't used because of the greater possibility for overcarbonation. If you carbonate a little too long at 20 PSI your beer will be less overcarbonated than if you overcarbonated at 40 PSI. The room for error/deviation is greater at a lower PSI. Perhaps there is a more scientific answer...


2

Ehhhh, not having 50 points... Either way, I would HIGHLY recommend not opening up the bottles and adding anything, or taking anything else out. This is just asking for contamination or at least oxygenation. Warm the bottles up a bit should work. Or letting them sit longer works too. Also, the yeast that is left in suspension when bottling is normally the ...


2

This is called "back sweetening", and you can look it up for a more authoritative answer than mine. As far as I know there are three approaches (purely from reading books and recipes, I've never actually back-sweetened myself): Add sugar right before you drink it. Add non-fermentable sugars or sweeteners. I've seen lactose most commonly recommended. ...


2

It depends entirely on what you mean by 'the nature' or 'quality of of the carbonation'. If we're talking carbonation and only carbonation (literally the level of dissolved carbon dioxide in the finished product, usually expressed as volumes of CO2/volume of liquid, or as parts per million) there's no difference between reaching that by bottle-conditioning ...


2

Assuming the same beer properties, the surface tension should be equal between force carbonation and bottle carbonation. Assuming equal surface tension, the CO2 bubbles should be equivalent in size. With equal temperature, pressure, time, and surface tension, the CO2 bubble size should be equivalent.


2

Carbonation can have a dramatic effect on beer flavor. I suspect your beer is overcarbonated and that's the cause of the off flavor. You can reduce the carbonation by allowing the keg to warm up to room temperature and periodically venting the keg as the CO2 comes out of solution. As suggested by @Pepi, use this chart to determine what you should set your ...


2

Five gallons worth of priming sugar going into four gallons of beer is most likely your problem. The possibility of inadequately stirring it into the beer before bottling (surprisingly not all that uncommon for beginners) may exasperate the problem to the point of bottle bombs. If over-carbonation is a common problem for several of your bottles, you may ...


2

A week might not be long enough (especially if your yeast is particularly beleaguered, which would depend mostly on what the ABV of the finished beer is and how long it's been since fermentation). Also, make sure your bottles are in a warm enough area (~70 deg. F is ideal for bottle-conditioning). Lower than this and it can definitely take several weeks, ...


2

If you took a specific gravity reading before you bottled and were confident that it was at final gravity, de-gas a sample and take another gravity reading now. If it's the same, it's over-carbonated. If it's noticeably lower, then some other wild yeast or bacteria else has likely got a hold of it.


2

It could be that there was an insufficient amount of active yeast in the beer when you bottled it. You could try this: Uncap each bottle Add two or three grains of dry yeast Recap the bottles Keep somewhere warm for a week or two. The other possibility is that the alcohol percentage in the beer is high enough to kill any yeast. If the beer is above 10% ...


2

You can also try storing the bottles upside down for a week or two. I have had great success with this in the past. I assume it has something to do with the smaller area for the yeast and sugar to settle. One side note, once carbonated you'll need to turn them back over to resettle or you'll have the yeast ring around the bottle mouth.


2

The yeast that carbonates your beer should already be in suspension, that is, invisible without a microscope. So, unless you've filtered the beer, don't worry about the yeast. Don't stir up the yeast cake either, those might not be very happy/tasty. But, you should stir the sugar into the beer to get good carbonation, as discussed here and in many other ...


2

If only some of the bottles were overcarbonated, in my experience that means the priming sugar wasn't mixed into the beer thoroughly enough in the bottling bucket. Two ways to ameliorate that are: if you have enough length, coil the tubing coming from your racking cane on the bottom of the bucket, creating a gentle whirlpool sanitize a spoon and gently ...



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