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22

AFAIK, there are no benefits. They're all basically the same. Brewing sugar is corn sugar and while there may be chemical differences between it and other types of sugar, the end result in your beer will be indistinguishable. Sugars like piloncillo or demarara can add a bit of flavor, but the result of adding corn, cane, beet, or brown sugar are pretty ...


15

I found How to Brew to be a very helpful book along with The Complete Joy of Homebrewing. I feel like it complimented Papazian's book well, and in some cases was a bit easier to read, or filled in any lingering questions I had. In the end everyone seems to go with Papazian's, but I think How to Brew was an easier read.


12

A lot of commercial breweries do that. Most that I know pitch a normal, or slightly larger, amount of yeast for the first batch. By the time the second is added, there has been enough yeast growth to accommodate it.


10

'Is this possible that beer could be brewed up somehow with weed?' Sure, in the same way you can put any sort of anything in your beers, as long as you think it will taste good. But to answer the more important question: '[W]ould you get the effects of both beer and pot both?' It would very much depend on how you used it in the process. THC, the ...


9

It looks like you can boil the avocado, and skim the oil off of the top of the water, I'm not sure of the pectin content in avocado, as this could give your beer a permanent haze, so I would recommend mixing some pectic enzyme in with your "avocado extract" when adding it to your secondary to help get rid of the pectin. I found this article which seems to ...


9

Top tier - Sparge Water Middle tier - Mash Tun Bottom Tier - Boil Kettle The main benefit to having the vessels stacked in this manner is that you can transfer water/wort without the use of a siphon or an electric pump, everything can be gravity fed from top to bottom. Three tiers also allow you to easily fly sparge much easier than other setups (...


8

In general, higher-alcohol beers age better. Something like a barleywine in the 10+% ABV range would likely be a good choice. As for aging 21 years, that I couldn't speak to. I've aged Imperial Stouts up to 2 years, and they keep getting better. Dogfish Head claims their DFH 120 will age well up to 10 years, and I think that's better than 15% ABV. Edit ...


8

I don't see any way you could know for certain. IMO, the best way to add flavoring to beer is by taste. Wait until the beer is fermented and pour 4 2 oz. samples. Dose each with a different, measured amount of espresso and taste to determine which you like best. Then scale that amount up to your 23L batch size. I do this with every flavoring I try and ...


8

Brewing Network should be your starting point. Download The Jamil Show, Brew Strong and Brewing With Style and listen to everything from the start. Yes, it is a LOT of podcasts, but you will learn so many things! There are other podcasts on the network, but I will recommend those to start with. Topics: EVERYTHING. They cover all topics, from very basic to ...


7

The Complete Joy of Home Brewing by Charlie Papazian


7

You should be capturing hot water out of your chiller for cleaning so that water is dual purpose. Second I was really able to cut down on water usage with a more efficient chilling operation. For me I invested in a bigger immersion chiller (50ft with 1/2in tubing) and put a pump into operation. I recirc my wort while chilling creating a whirpool. This is ...


7

I agree with Denny, except that I can taste brown sugar, especially when used for priming. It is very subtle and mostly an aroma, but tastes slightly different from cane/beet/corn sugar. Same is true of honey; it mostly ferments out but leaves a subtle residual flavor. I like to use brown sugar on bottle or keg conditioned stouts (oatmeal, milk) and I like ...


7

A similar question was asked here on the BN forum. It all boils down (no pun intended) to whether the wheat malt will have enough diastatic power to convert itself. The answer to that is a little confusing to me so far. The charts at the Home Brewing Wiki here give diastatic power as percentages, but other references I've found use Lintner or Windisch-...


7

This will not work with a tea-bag or any other kind of cloth. Unless it's enclosed in a very fine membrane the yeast would easily be able to get through, then disperse and propogate in the main liquid. However, something like this can actually be done. Some homebrewers have taken a high-technology cue from industrial beer and do what's known as an ...


6

One of the best beers I've made came from a sandwich. Seriously. I was eating a pepper turkey and pepper jack on Jewish Rye, with some spicy mustard. Toward the end of the meal, I bit into a caraway seed. The flavor exploded! I decided I needed that in a beer. So I came up with a recipe for a rye dry stout with caraway seeds. It's my best recipe.


6

Are you talking about not adding any hops at the beginning of the boil and relying on only late addition hops for bitterness? This is a technique I have read about and tasted a few examples and the results were pretty good. This works well in moderately bitter beers where you want a lot of hop flavor and aroma. Basically you eliminate the 60 minute ...


6

First of all, don't be so hard on yourself. Think of all the efficiencies made by brewing and drinking your own stuff. The beer in the store was driven there in a big, fossil fuel burning truck, with a whole lot of water used in the process. Home brewed beer comes in either re-used glass bottles, or re-purposed soda kegs, never in cans that end up in a ...


6

While I respect your intentions, it is highly unlikely (basically impossible) that any beer you make today will be good after 10+ years of aging. Ask yourself this question. If you personally are "into beer" enough to be a home brewer, why is it that you yourself have never had a 10+ year old non-distilled, barley-based beverage? The closest thing I've had ...


6

If you produce the same volume of beer with more malt, this will increase both alcohol and residual sweetness. It's the residual sweetness that will give it a heavier body. A couple other things you could try that won't affect the alcohol content as much: Mash at a higher temperature. Keeping the mash temperature close to 156 F. will lead the creation of ...


6

I agree with Tobias on more unfermentable sugars (high mash temp) and dextrine malts (carapils). I'm adding a separate answer because I've had good luck adding maltodextrin. Carapils, which is supposed to do the same thing, has given me somewhat inconsistent results - that is sometimes I notice it and sometimes I don't. People tend to use maltodextrin more ...


6

I have had something similar, I was brewing a Bohemian Pilsner Ale and the yeast formed tennis ball sized clumps on the top of the beer! I freaked out! But I recited the Papazian mantra and kegged the beer. That beer ended up being one my best beers ever. Some yeasts (S04 in my case) sometimes flocculate, but in the process still have so much CO2 that they ...


5

Cleaning: If you use PBW, one batch of PBW can be reused many many times. This may also be true of other cleaners, but I've only ever used PBW. Sanitizing: As with PBW, one batch of StarSan can be reused many times. The key with StarSan is to make the batch with the cleanest water possible and then keep it in a sealed container. Cooling: There are lots of ...


5

Let me try to answer your questions. 1) Modern home brewers use airlocks to minimize the chance that airborne wild yeast or bacteria will populate the beer and produce undesirable characteristics. A brewer chooses a specific yeast strain for their beer because of the particular properties that that yeast strain has been cultured to impart on the beer. The ...


5

Without doubt, How To Brew, by John Palmer has been the biggest help to me in starting brewing. It is easy to start off with and then intriduces more complexity. A book I constantly go back to.


5

Kent Place Software produces some useful brewing apps for iPhone and Mac. They also have an iPad version in the works. I've used their Beer Alchemy Mac software for awhile. BeerAlchemy Touch is their iPhone version. It's a bit pricey at $14.99, but provides wireless syncing between the mac version and the iPhone version, which is really handy. Brew Math ...


5

I just bottled 5 gallons of cider I made (my first batch last year was excellent, and strong). I've definitely found cider to be easier than beer when it comes to the actual brewing. That said, if you press the cider yourself and/or add in apple picking for 5 gallons worth of cider, you've got a bit of work to do. The recipe I used was specified by the ...


5

The best way to get started is to find out if you have a friend, co-worker, or other acquaintance who brews and is willing to brew a batch or two with you. This is ideal as you don't need to buy anything to get started -- your friend will have it all. Of course, bringing a six-pack or buying the batch's ingredients is always a good gesture :). If you find ...


5

Something like a pale ale, either American or English, is pretty straight forward in terms of ingredients and procedures. Don't start with a lager...they require extra equipment and time. Some other styles, like Belgian beers, are a bit more finicky in terms of fermentation temp and I'd recommend avoiding them til you get more equipment and experience.


5

You can't make something taste better if you do not know what it tastes like. Brew the beer as you have it. Taste it, determine what it needs, then re-brew the beer with new changes.



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