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Hop bags are the answer. I use hop bags. You can use multiple hop bags for your multiple hop additions. I tie them to the handle of the brew kettle so they don't come open during the boil. You may want to up the hop quantities a touch (10%?) because you get slightly lower utilization in hop bags. When it's time for racking, chill the wort and then pull the ...

I used to do the same thing but recently have found these bags http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/large-straining-bag-18-3-4-x-19.html I get the one that is big enough to fit in the bucket and stretch it over the top. I then simply pour the whole boil kettle into the bucket and lift the bag out. The mesh on these is finer than the hop sacks I have been ...

I wouldn't go any hotter than a 4500 watt element for a 15 gallon brew kettle. While the temptation to put a bigger element in to speed up the process is great, consider that once the liquid achieves boil, you will end up with a very localized 'hot spot' right on the element that causes the liquid to boil VIGOROUSLY. That locally hard boil will cause the ...

I sometimes use a set up similar to your. After I whirlpool, I'll put my racking can in, but I hold it so its not all the way down sitting in the trub/hot mix. I hold it about half way. As I siphon I continuously lower the racking cane, being careful as I get closer to the bottom to not get into the junk. The other thing I do is I plan for a half to one ...

The formula to determine wattage is as follows: Gallons * Temp Rise (F) ------------------------------------ * 1000 = Watts Required 372 * heat up time (hours) So, for a homebrew example of 7 gallons of wort at the beginning of your boil, and desiring to reach boil in 15 minutes, and assuming your wort temperature before boil is 150 degrees F after sparge ...

You can buy off the shelf equipment that can do all of this. I have two plastic boilers that I got from the local homebrew shop, both have thermistors on the back to control the boil. A friend has got a fancier non-plastic electric boiler/mash tun, which he got from the same place. Have a look at The Malt Miller's equipment page, there is everything on there ...

I use a 5500W reliance element for boiling 56L wort (ca. 15 gallons) on about 80% duty which gives a vigorous boil. This is the typical pre-boil volume for hitting 10 gallons packaged beer. The element uses a 1" NPS thread (although check carefully - there are also elements with 1-3/8" thread.) You can get 1" NPS locknuts at bargainfittings.com. There's a ...

I think this will work. I've used a stainless scrubby to build a hopback, where the main point was to filter out the hops, keeping them in the container. You may want to experiment with putting the scrubby around the braid rather than inside it, since it may be too tightly packed if put inside, preventing flow.

I would suggest that you make a hop spider, I had this problem when making beers with lots of hops until I stumbled into a discussion on homebrewtalk. http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=hop+spider After building on I never had this problem again, it was cheap (less than $15)..