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Sure. This amounts to a large starter, so you may be slightly overpitching, but I've used the yeast cake from a 5 gallon batch to ferment another 5 gallon batch and had no issues. Depending on the style you are brewing, this could change the flavor somewhat, so to get an optimal pitching rate you could use a yeast calculator. Also, if you aren't washing the ...


Half of the people I know give their dogs a little beer now and then, whether they're having a barbecue, a bonfire, or simply hanging out at the fishing hole, and like the above post, many of these dogs outlived their human counterparts. So from my experience through the years, beer is not harmful to dogs. Course then, I reckon you'll have to decide that for ...


We brew a watermelon wheat as well. We add the strained watermelon juice at kegging. You couldn't bottle this way (refermentation = bottle bombs), but for kegging, it's the solution we've found works best.


Clones of 21st Amendment Hell or High Watermelon wheat beer tend to add it late in primary or in secondary. Make your beer about 1/8th watermelon, and add everything.


Have you tried taking apart and cleaning out everything below the tubing (valve / dip tube, etc). I had an issue with excessive foam that turned out to be some hop trub getting picked up and clogging the valve. Give everything a thorough cleaning and make sure all o-rings are seated properly before going to more drastic measures.


About the only times I use a secondary any more are when I'm adding more fermentables (like fruit) or when I dry hop. There are interactions between they yeast and dry hops that can result in a really "flowery" quality to the beer due to an increase in geraniol. You don't have to worry about off flavors due to yeast. That's a homebrew myth carried over ...


Foam directly above the connector is a problem. Foam should only form where there is a pressure drop or a rise in temperature, and that all usually happens at the tap. Either the beer is too carbonated for the temperature, or there is a restriction in the dip tube or connector. I would try to lower the pressure first. Without a relief valve, it means ...


From my experience there are a few things that caused beer foam for me. Watch out for CO2 saturation! Carbonating for long periods (or shaking) with too high a pressure will mean that you cannot get anything but foam. This one was a killer for me when I started because I would shake the kegs at 40 psi and release the pressure then apply 8 psi for the ...


"How safe would that beer be?" If it's steam coming from a commercial appliance (presumably a dish-washer or some other such food-grade device) it wouldn't be any less safe than eating off a dish that came through it. What you might see is a small carry-over of that plastic-y scent into your beer from residuals left after draining. Unsafe? No. ...


If you have already gelatin fined your brew once, then it may be that the haze is not being caused by yeast in suspension, which gelatin is intended to tackle. A possible alternative is that your beer is hazy due to long proteins in suspension and a different fining agent is required to tackle this issue. Polyclar is one such agent and can be added after ...


It's actually hard to say without knowing a few things. Did you use all barley? Wheat will make your beer cloudy. Did you dry hop with pellets? If so, chill your secondary fermentor before you rack your beer over to kegs or bottles.


There's certainly no harm in trying it again. Any gelatin you add will sink to the bottom regardless of whether or not it takes any haze-causing particles with it. In my experience, different beers have vastly different requirements for fining, some needing several times as much fining as an easy-to-fine one. Some things about IPAs and haze: Hops, ...

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