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8

Yes, this is to be expected and perfectly normal - when you have a half filled container of beer, the carbon dioxide that's dissolved in the beer will come out of the beer to fill the space available, so you have less carbon dioxide in the beer, and less fizz. You can try keeping the half-filled bottles cool which will retain more carbon dioxide in the ...


7

It is impossible to predict YOUR FG. I know nothing about your skill level, your fermentation processes (temp, O2, pitching rates). I know nothing about the yeast you plan to use. I know nothing about the true fermentability of the extract and booster you are using. That said some estimates can be made. In the best of scenarios if we assume a 65% ...


6

Sounds like what you're smelling is some sort of sulfur compound. That's pretty common with that particular strain of yeast. It will eventually age out. How long ago did you brew the beer? What temp did it ferment at?


6

This will not work with a tea-bag or any other kind of cloth. Unless it's enclosed in a very fine membrane the yeast would easily be able to get through, then disperse and propogate in the main liquid. However, something like this can actually be done. Some homebrewers have taken a high-technology cue from industrial beer and do what's known as an ...


6

Fermentation temperature is often overlooked and it's really the key to making good beer. If you don't control the temp, everything else you do doesn't really matter. I prefer most beers to ferment in the 63-65F range. Whatever you do, don't let the beer get over 70F. That's beer temp, not room temp. Due to the heat created during fermentation, the beer ...


5

If you are batch sparging the rate has minimal impact of efficiency. If you are fly sparging in most certainly can have an effect, slower is usually better. Finding the balance between a speedy enough brew session and decent efficiency is a personal choice. Shooting for 75% is probably fine and some report getting better beer without pushing into the 80+% ...


5

Check out the 3-part article below. It details experiments using different amounts of Clarity Ferm on different styles of beer. The findings were that Clarity Ferm breaks down gluten nearly completely - well below the "gluten free" maximums - in all beers. http://beerandwinejournal.com/clarity-ferm-i http://beerandwinejournal.com/clarity-ferm-ii ...


5

I use it in every batch. Several local breweries in this area, including a rather large one (Yards) use it as well. Word need to be spread about this fantastic product, as it opens the door for most if not all Celiacs to be able to consume beer again, and to rid us of the awful garbage that is sorghum-based gluten-free "beer" (quotes intentional). Yes, the ...


5

What you describe in your comments sounds like trub (pronounced "troob"). It's mostly yeast, proteins, fats, and sometimes hop material. It's totally normal for that stuff to settle to the bottom of the vessel after fermentation is complete. You don't filter it; you just let it settle and then carefully siphon the beer off while picking up as little of the ...


5

The primary benefit of a starter is having the proper number of healthy yeast cells to ferment your wort. By "proper number", we mean about 0.75 million cells per milliliter per degree Plato of wort for ales, and 1.5 million cells/mL/P for lagers. (Consider that smack packs and vials have about 100bn cells when fresh, which is only enough cells for 5gl/19L ...


5

I strongly doubt it will stand up to boiling water. Also boiling water isn't a guaranteed way to sanitize equipment - bacteria can still remain in hard to reach places. You should instead get hold of a sanitizer specifically developed for brewing: Iodophor, Star San are the two most popular.


5

Do not do this! Speaking from experience. I accidentally put my auto siphon into a bucket that was full of near boiling water. I turned away for just a minute and the plastic had softened enough that I now own a "J" shaped autosiphon. Needless to say I can't use it anymore. If you want to boil sanitize equipment like this you can get a stainless racking ...


4

I use this in every beer I make. My father is highly allergic to gluten and he is able to drink all of my beer.


4

First, expressing evaporation rate as a % is completely the worng way to do it. Boil is a constant gal./hr. and does not change due to batch size. You don't boil off twice as much for a 10 gal. batch as a 5 gal. batch. 6 liters/hr. is about what my boil off is using a converted keg kettle and a propane burner. I try to set the flame to the same level ...


4

John Palmer's How to Brew or Charlie Papazian's New Complete Joy of Homebrewing are good beginner books. In terms of equipment, I suggest using the inventory from the lowest-tier kit sold by Midwest Supplies (currently $70) as a minimal shopping list, plus a 5-gallon kettle, plus a no-rinse sanitizer such as Star-San or Iodophor, and plus a ...


4

I can't answer as to how myrtlewood would affect the beer, but I do want to mention that it's generally not a good idea to let anything made of wood touch your wort or beer after the boil because the porous wood can harbor all kinds of microbes. Around the 15th century, some of the brewing monks started to catch on to the way the angels (yeasts) were ...


4

For a typical 5% ABV beer, brewed between 16 and 20°C, allow 10-14 days for fermentation to stop, and few more days for the yeast to clear. But using bread yeast might get you a different result. Starting with about 10% sugar you would expect to get a 4-5% beer, but your yeast might have other ideas and quit before it gets that far. After the bubbling ...


4

You can use a beer priming-sugar calculator to determine the correct amount. For 2L of beer, which probably already has ~2 volumes of CO₂, you probably only need 3-5g of table sugar and just a sprinkle of yeast, and then you're mostly just going to presurize the vessel instead of really carbonating the beer itself. If you let the beer go flat, first, assume ...


4

It's impossible to know what you're creating when you did not tell us about any of: the recipe extract or all grain; mash temperature gravity readings what size/volume fermentor; bucket or carboy yeast fermentation temperature As for the fermentor: it's great (!) that there is foam coming out the airlock since that means it won't explode. But the fact ...


3

There are 2 prominent answers to this: 1) Over carbonation. Can be a problem if the bottles start to explode. Solution when serving: Pour beer into a jug with a lid so that the foam is to the lid level and close lid. Repeat for another jug or two (depending on amount of beer that you want drink). Now pour from jug 1 (with the lid still on). The lid holds ...


3

This is not a great hobby if your goal is to save money on beer costs. It takes a long time to recoup the cost of equipment when you save pennies per glass. And there is always more equipment to try... That being said, the cheapest and lowest risk way to get into the hobby with making one-gallon batches. You can get a one-gallon recipe/ingredient kit from ...


3

First I would stick with 5 gallon equipment and brew half sized batches. Barrel half and bottle the other half. Then you have side by side comparators. I don't think worrying about angel's share is a concern. With such a small barrel the surface contact to volume ratio is going to be huge. The first few batches will likely develop huge oak flavors very ...


3

Yes, you can do that although you may encounter some problems. The beer gas (60/40) is likely at a higher pressure, so hooking a conventionally carbonated keg may (repeat, MAY) cause it to dispense with too much pressure and cause excessive foaming. That might require reducing the serving pressure by adjusting the beer gas regulator. OTOH, it may not be a ...


3

That's not at all an usual occurrence. Bitterness will fade somewhat with time and aroma even moreso. Especially with older hops like you used.


2

If you're looking to add real fruit to any brew you'll want to do so in secondary to get the most flavor. I've had really good success in taking my fruit of choice and pureeing it in a food processor with little vodka - about 1/4 cup per 2lb of fruit seems a good balance. The vodka will help kill off any additional bugs that may have made it past washing ...


2

Boiling 6 gallons on a 3.5 kW induction top works flawlessly.


2

The best solution is to drink the full liter.


2

Fermentability is more realted to the wort than the yeast. Given what you posted, my bet is that you made a wort high in unfermentables and may not get much more attenuation.


2

You did no harm by adding all that yeast, but it very likely was unnecessary. The 11 gram yeast pack by itself would have been sufficient. The 7 gram would not. It's pretty hard to predict FG accurately unless you've made a recipe several times. If I was to shoot in the dark, I'd guess you'll finish in the mid 20s. But that's only a guess.


2

I agree with @Denny that stating evaporation as a fixed percent in your assumptions is somewhat meaningless for homebrewing because boiloff is constant based primarily on your kettle geometry and BTUs of heat. In other words, the percent being evaporated constantly goes up as the remaining volume shrinks (with 100% evaporation when the last drop is ...



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