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7

This will not work with a tea-bag or any other kind of cloth. Unless it's enclosed in a very fine membrane the yeast would easily be able to get through, then disperse and propogate in the main liquid. However, something like this can actually be done. Some homebrewers have taken a high-technology cue from industrial beer and do what's known as an ...


7

Yes (sort of... You can't just warm the bottle up and chuck it in there... It's a little more complicated than that...) but you will need to buy a good quality, bottle conditioned beer (look for sediment in the bottom of the bottle, or the words "bottle conditioned" on the label... Or ask your beer shop...) Basically, most commercial brewers (particularly ...


6

Fermentation temperature is often overlooked and it's really the key to making good beer. If you don't control the temp, everything else you do doesn't really matter. I prefer most beers to ferment in the 63-65F range. Whatever you do, don't let the beer get over 70F. That's beer temp, not room temp. Due to the heat created during fermentation, the beer ...


6

"How safe would that beer be?" If it's steam coming from a commercial appliance (presumably a dish-washer or some other such food-grade device) it wouldn't be any less safe than eating off a dish that came through it. What you might see is a small carry-over of that plastic-y scent into your beer from residuals left after draining. Unsafe? No. ...


4

There's certainly no harm in trying it again. Any gelatin you add will sink to the bottom regardless of whether or not it takes any haze-causing particles with it. In my experience, different beers have vastly different requirements for fining, some needing several times as much fining as an easy-to-fine one. Some things about IPAs and haze: Hops, ...


4

Clones of 21st Amendment Hell or High Watermelon wheat beer tend to add it late in primary or in secondary. Make your beer about 1/8th watermelon, and add everything.


4

Technically, you can use baker's yeast, but I doubt you'd be as happy as you would by using brewer's yeast. Both yeasts are Saccharomyces cerevisiae, however, they are different strains of the same species that are bred to do two different jobs. Baker's yeast has been bred to produce CO2 and cause bread to rise and brewer's yeast has been bred to survive ...


4

For a typical 5% ABV beer, brewed between 16 and 20°C, allow 10-14 days for fermentation to stop, and few more days for the yeast to clear. But using bread yeast might get you a different result. Starting with about 10% sugar you would expect to get a 4-5% beer, but your yeast might have other ideas and quit before it gets that far. After the bubbling ...


4

You can use a beer priming-sugar calculator to determine the correct amount. For 2L of beer, which probably already has ~2 volumes of CO₂, you probably only need 3-5g of table sugar and just a sprinkle of yeast, and then you're mostly just going to presurize the vessel instead of really carbonating the beer itself. If you let the beer go flat, first, assume ...


4

It's impossible to know what you're creating when you did not tell us about any of: the recipe extract or all grain; mash temperature gravity readings what size/volume fermentor; bucket or carboy yeast fermentation temperature As for the fermentor: it's great (!) that there is foam coming out the airlock since that means it won't explode. But the fact ...


4

Yes. The relation between temperature, pressure and volumes of CO₂ are true at higher-than-fridge temperatures, as well. The biggest difference is that with the higher pressure required for the carbonation at the higher temperature, you'll need longer beer serving lines to resist the extra pressure to get a reasonable pour without foaming. Let's say ...


4

I recommend reading just enough to learn to brew your first few batches instead of trying to take in all the information at once. And as questions come up while brewing, write them down and devote a great deal of time to researching and answering those questions. As you progress into brewing the application of that knowledge will lead to more questions as ...


4

An extra month of aging isn't a problem for a beer with healthy yeast stored at an appropriate temperature. It might have been better if it was already bottled, but your yeast have had extra time to eat up residual sugars that tend to make home brew a little heavy, and the yeast should have flocculated more giving a cleaner, clearer beer. The potential ...


4

Using what you have, and me not being a fan of centennial, I would use. Magnum (bittering) 60min Willamette (flavor) 30min Willamette (aroma) 2min Those should play nicely since Fat Sam seems to be a US inspired beer. Adjust your hop weights to match the IBU potential of the original hops using the new hops AA%


3

That's not at all an usual occurrence. Bitterness will fade somewhat with time and aroma even moreso. Especially with older hops like you used.


3

We did some fruit pale ales last year with dehydrated fruit. We have a dehydrator and dried the fruit at 165 to kill off baddies and sealed it up till use. We did pineapple, kiwis, strawberries and chili peppers, non had any infection, even 6 months after. So it's an idea. Also the strawberry tasted amazing!


3

Just wanted to add the results of my experiments with Clarity Ferm. I've made 3 batches so far with it, in three different styles: an American Pale, a Belgian-ish Saison, and an Amber Ale. I didn't do an A/B test with and without the Clarity Ferm on any of them, but none of them tasted noticeably different than other batches that I've done from the same ...


3

Sure. This amounts to a large starter, so you may be slightly overpitching, but I've used the yeast cake from a 5 gallon batch to ferment another 5 gallon batch and had no issues. Depending on the style you are brewing, this could change the flavor somewhat, so to get an optimal pitching rate you could use a yeast calculator and discard part of your yeast ...


3

John Palmer's book "How to Brew" is an excellent place to start and earlier versions are on line for free. It covers all the bases of brewing with quite a bit of technical information. I use this book as a reference tool all the time. If you want to get into the nuts and bolts of the individual components of brewing try the Brewing Element Series from ...


3

Yes. It's called dunkelweizen. Made with wheat malt and Munich malt. http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/15BDunkelweizen


3

If you were to bottle it as is, the beer will remain just as carbonated (if not less, due to agitation) than it is now. In order to get the carbonation you will need to add some source of fermentables (sugars) be it priming sugar or otherwise. The type and amount of sugar added are largely dependent on style and personal taste. Though there are many an ...


3

Smoked malt is made from base malt...I've never seen it any other way. That means you should always mash it so you don't end up with unconverted starch in your beer.


3

Take gravity readings every day for three to 5 days. if it does not change, chances are it is done and ready for bottling.


3

It's basically as straightforward as you think. Weissbier/weizen recipes vary, but you're looking at 40-60% wheat malt, with the balance being mostly pilsner or pale/2-row malt, maybe a touch of carapils for residual sugars/body. The biggest thing to note is that crushed grain as a much more limited lifetime than whole grain that you crush on demand. But ...


3

As Robert said about cooling. Stay away from Lagers until you get some experience and most important heating and cooling for lager fermentation. Lagers require a diacetyl rest where you usually need heating in addition to cooling. A Blonde Ale was actually my very first brew. I recommend getting an Ale extract kit that has some steeping grains to get your ...


2

I once made ginger candy. The secret to the spiciness was in heating the ginger, letting it cool and then heating it again. Each heating and cooling cycle added quite a bit more kick to the ginger. I would imagine the same would be true for ginger beer. After the fourth cycle, the ginger was so spicey that I could not eat it!


2

While these are nice lists I would like to point out that you do not need a 5 gallon bucket and carboy. I like to experiment with new recipes using a two gallon bucket and an old one gallon apple cider jug. Cheap, easy, and provides 8 bottles of beer in much less (brew day) time than a five gallon batch.


2

The best description I was able to find is PDF on shop's page. Recipe is probably copyrighted, but here is excerpt that should be good enough to start (in case PDF is no longer accessible): Recipe is for t 5 quarts (4.75 liters) of wort. In homebrew, we usually brew four to five times this amount, so just multiply everything by 4. Or 5. Recommended mash is ...


2

Make sure you sanitize everything. Make sure you aerate your wort properly before pitching your yeast. Make sure you've got an air tight seal on your FV along with suitable blow off. As Denny said, try to control your fermentation temp. And be patient when it's fermenting. Don't open the vessel, don't shake it. Just relax and let it happen.


2

About the only times I use a secondary any more are when I'm adding more fermentables (like fruit) or when I dry hop. There are interactions between they yeast and dry hops that can result in a really "flowery" quality to the beer due to an increase in geraniol. You don't have to worry about off flavors due to yeast. That's a homebrew myth carried over ...



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