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If you are batch sparging the rate has minimal impact of efficiency. If you are fly sparging in most certainly can have an effect, slower is usually better. Finding the balance between a speedy enough brew session and decent efficiency is a personal choice. Shooting for 75% is probably fine and some report getting better beer without pushing into the 80+% ...


2

You did no harm by adding all that yeast, but it very likely was unnecessary. The 11 gram yeast pack by itself would have been sufficient. The 7 gram would not. It's pretty hard to predict FG accurately unless you've made a recipe several times. If I was to shoot in the dark, I'd guess you'll finish in the mid 20s. But that's only a guess.


2

Fermentability is more realted to the wort than the yeast. Given what you posted, my bet is that you made a wort high in unfermentables and may not get much more attenuation.


1

I take it was an extract brew, not AG, so there won't be much of non-fermentables (aka starch). What was done wrong? Too big OG. Probably no starter. Probably poor wort aeration. What is wrong now? The op expects the result too soon. I'd normally expect e.g. a beer of OG 1.090 to sit in the fermenter for 2-3 months (with proper aeration and starter!). ...


1

I always recommend to novice brewers that they try to make a 1 gallon batch before investing in all the equipment. Most people already have kitchen equipment suitable for making 1 gallon of beer and any additional equipment is easy to find like a 1 gallon glass or plastic jug. Any decent homebrew supply shop should sell 1lb bags of malt which you can make a ...


1

For my first Rogue hazelnut brown nectar clone I am using a homemade hazelnut extract (2 cups roasted and crushed in 2 cups vodka for 4 weeks) It will not be as potent as the commercial extracts so I am thinking a couple tbs in the 5 gallons - will let you know if interested. ..



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