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5

As someone noted, chlorine and chloride are two different things. Basically, zero chlorine and chloramine is desirable in your beer. Chlorine can bind with phenols in beer and form chlorophenols, a common homebrew flaw that leads to off-flavors described as medicinal, plastick-y, band-aid-like, or sometimes like electrical smoke. There are many ways to ...


4

There is a distinct difference between chloride, which is a dissolved Cl- ion, and free residual chlorine (or the longer-lasting chloramine ions). The chloride is likely fine. The 61ppm concentration would make your water smell like a pool (or stronger) if it were chlorine. A chlorine residual test must be conducted within 15 minutes of taking the sample. ...


1

Not really. Time will reduce the bitterness somewhat, but not a great deal. If it's undrinkable, your best bet is to brew a second beer with very little hop bitterness and blend the two beers.


1

Change that batch sparge to a fly sparge if you can. Use a good false bottom with little dead space (something like this works great: http://morebeer.com/products/stainless-steel-false-bottom-12-diameter.html). Also remember that the sparge needs even, unidirectional flow to get the sugars away from the grain. Never stir it if you don't absolutely have to. ...


1

I would say 1.5" is plenty high. I have a 7.5 gal kettle that came with a spigot positioned about 2.5" above the bottom and I almost always found that I had to tip the kettle to get all the wort out. Depending on your chilling method, if you can manage to allow the trub to settle out while chilling, or don't 'mind waiting 30 minutes or so after your done ...



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