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8

I don't think lactose is desirable in a cream ale. Don't let the name fool you, cream ales have no cream or lactose or anything of the sort. They're basically American lager type beers fermented with ale yeast. Lactose would add sweetness and take away from the crisp finish most people would find desirable in this kind of beer. That's why the recipe calls ...


5

It's probably just too cool. I had lots of problems with carbonation when I left my bottles in my 65-70 degree basement. In fact, I had one batch where the bottles on the concrete floor did not carbonate but the ones sitting on top of those, off the floor, did carbonate. Eventually, I started putting them in the laundry room on a shelf above the dryer, where ...


4

What you're doing is lagering the beer, so it would have the same benefits it has for a lager beer. Beer deteriorates much more slowly at cold temperatures. The only possible problem I know of is that after that much time you might not have enough yeast left in suspension to carbonate the beer in the bottle. If that's what you intend to do, it'd be a good ...


3

Probably not. Typically people rack to secondary once most signs of active fermentation are done in the primary fermenter. 1.022 seems too high for primary to be completely done, but it's impossible to say without knowing what the gravity was the day before and after that, how many days it's been fermenting, what the activity level is in the fermenter, ...


3

If you saw a beer head during the 2nd fermentation, you likely just let the beer get too cold. Ales tend to like 70F+ bottle fermenting conditions. You can tell if your beer's yeast has died by the foam created when mixing in sugar. The reaction will always create alcohol and CO2. The reaction creates bubbles, which make the foam during fermentation. ...


3

In general, adding lactose will add sweetness and overall silkier/creamier mouthfeel. Perhaps you are confusing the name with milk stouts, or "cream" stouts which do use lactose to achieve this creamy mouthfeel. Milk stouts fall into a different category of BJCP, #13B, rather than #6 for cream ales. This article gives you a good idea of the flavour and usage ...


3

Carbonation I agree with @Sander's recommendation to use an online priming sugar calculator. I respectfully disagree that carbonating in bottles is an art -- it is repeatable science. One way to get close enough to moderately carbonated beer, but not necessarily precisely what the styles calls for, is to use carbonation drops, Coopers tabs, Prime Tabs, ...


2

Ehhhh, not having 50 points... Either way, I would HIGHLY recommend not opening up the bottles and adding anything, or taking anything else out. This is just asking for contamination or at least oxygenation. Warm the bottles up a bit should work. Or letting them sit longer works too. Also, the yeast that is left in suspension when bottling is normally the ...


2

I routinely do this. Namely because of time constraints as well. My normal brewing process involves brewing once a month. So when brewing the next batch I am tending to the previous batch which was fermented and then crash for a month.


2

A week might not be long enough (especially if your yeast is particularly beleaguered, which would depend mostly on what the ABV of the finished beer is and how long it's been since fermentation). Also, make sure your bottles are in a warm enough area (~70 deg. F is ideal for bottle-conditioning). Lower than this and it can definitely take several weeks, ...


2

I would actually encourage you to HOLD UP on changing the yeast. First of all, you didn't indicate what yeast you actually used. I'm assuming its a neutral ale yeast (US-05, Nottingham, Muntons, etc) because you really don't want a ton of yeast flavor in a Rye Pale Ale. That style highlights the weird spicy flavor of the rye along with a nice hop wallop, and ...


2

Your options are pretty limited at this point. If you want to add fermentable sugars to the keg, you'll need to incapacitate the yeast first. You can do this with a measured dose of potassium sorbate and metabisulfite, but that will likely affect the flavour. You could pasteurize the beer, but that's technically difficult and will also affect the flavour. ...


2

I think the most likely cause is not overpriming, but that you bottled it too soon. Even at as high a temperature as you used, it's pretty unlikely that the beer was finished fermenting in 6 days. Even if it was, that's not enough time for yeast and proteins to drop out and the beer to clear. I highly recommend keeping it refrigerated for 3 ...


2

I would add the oak (still wet) and the bourbon it was soaking in to the carboy. The bourbon has probably picked up a lot of oak flavour that you want in your beer.


2

I brew in China, so I kinda know what you're dealing with. But we have Taobao so nearly everything can be obtained online. A quick look at Alibaba would suggest that at least hops and malt extract exist somewhere in India. If you're in an area that has beer, you could also try befriending someone at a brewery. In the absence of that, you should consider ...


1

If you are using the Bourbon to sanitize the chips and not looking for much Bourbon flavor, toss only the chips. I don't know if it make much difference if they are wet of dry other than the alcohol will evaporate if you let them dry. If you are trying to replicate beer aged in Bourbon barrels it only makes sense to toss the Bourbon and oak chips into the ...


1

I have a similar Porter which is due to be transferred soon. I've researched online for an answer to this question, and opinions vary greatly. Some say that the whiskey will have dissolved a lot of the tannins, so you shouldn't put it in. Also a lot of those people think it is merely a way of bumping the alcohol by spiking the beer with whiskey (I think ...


1

Quite simply - that's isn't a beer nor ale, it would just be the creation of alcohol from the yeast and the sugar. There would be no specific flavours to impart or develop from the yeast and I'm not surprised it tastes foul. Your approach is not dissimilar from the process of wine making (that said most brewing involves pretty much the same steps) - ...


1

I don't think you have anything to worry about yet. Most of my batches take around 2 weeks to get to a reasonable level of carbonation, and are usually fully carbonated in about 3 weeks. Take Papazian's advice - Don't worry, have a Homebrew! I would comment on the amount of sugar, but I can't tell the size of your batch from your post, but the standard for ...


1

At least here in the US, the dominant yeast suppliers are Wyeast and White Labs. Since you're talking about the differences of switching between strains of yeast I'd say it'll be most beneficial to consult the lab whose yeast you're getting. They'll give you tons of strain-specific info about flavor production, optimum temperatures, pitch rates, all that ...


1

There is always plenty of yeast in suspension unless one did an extended cold store in secondary. Fermentis S04 is a pretty reliable yeast. I wouldn't add more priming sugar yet. I'd make sure the keg is warm enough and give it more time. Fermentis S04 is a pretty reliable yeast, but it can be finicky to dropping temps and alcohol. 5 days is a little ...


1

You can always leave them longer at the lower temperature, or bring them up to 70ish. Which Yeast did you use specifically? Did you re-pitch yeast during bottling or it was warm for the initial pitch? 80-85 is pretty warm for Ale Yeasts. Wouldn't kill it, but might give off some flavors that aren't wanted. Prior to bottling were you still getting bubbles ...


1

It might be that your beer is quite strong (you didn't mention the OG), and the yeast has bowed out. (what yeast did you use?) What's the current reading on the brew? I'd open up a couple of bottles, add a few crumbs of dehydrated yeast with a high alcohol tolerance (at this stage, using champagne yeast is quite ok, try it on a few bottles). Close it up ...



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