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9

Most of those ridiculously high ABV beers have been ice-distilled (some multiple times). Supposedly it's technically illegal for homebrewers since it's distilling, but it's basically just cooling the beer to the point where some of the water freezes and removing the ice. You can get pretty decent ABVs (12%+) without resorting to that though. You'll need a ...


8

Making a (good) hard root beer sounds tricky. At least, the traditional method of brewing root beer doesn't seem like it would scale well to the weeks-of-fermentation beer brewing model. I imagine in the end, while you would have higher alcohol content, too much of the sugar will have been fermented, so you'd end up with a few gallons of not very sweet ...


7

I went through exactly this about 9 months ago. I couldn't find anything online about it, so I used a basic cider as the inspiration. Here are the exact notes I took while brewing it. Some sections were direct copies from the cider recipe, I added the rest. 1lb Munton’s Dry Malt 2Fl Oz Root Beer Concentrate ¾ cup priming sugar 5lbs granulated sugar ...


6

Depending upon quantities, there are many benefits to adding zinc. For example, you'll get better lacing, as zinc helps precipitate proteins. Zinc additions can also increase fermentation rate, improve the extent of attenuation, improve yeast vigour and viability, and improve beer flavour through stimulating acetate ester production and ...


6

Your process sounds fine - it's the way you're using the hydrometer that's the problem. To estimate alcohol content, you need to take a reading at the start of fermentation. You cannot read the alcohol content from the hydrometer alcohol scale at the end of fermentation. The hydrometer cannot measure the alcohol content directly, but it can estimate how ...


6

BE SURE to boil any water you add at this point to deoxygenate it. If you don't, the added water will oxidize your beer and promote faster staling.


6

14% would be pretty high, even for high gravity yeasts, but 11% is definitely realistic. There are a few tricks to getting high ABV. You want really good aeration so that the yeast are healthy, often this means aerating when pitching and again the day after. You also may want to add sugar slowly instead of putting it all in at once. This is easy with ...


5

I believe it will be possible to add extra water to decrease the ABV but is it really necessary? If so I would get purified water and for a 43L batch add a few liters to decrease the ABV. Do this in the new carboy before racking the brew into it. If it was me I would leave it though. As mentioned by others without having the exact readings it is hard to say ...


5

I once had a delicious "American Cervesa" that was kegged into an uncleaned root beer keg. It was really freaking delicious. Definitely had a noticeable root beer flavor.


5

If you're looking for a quick, easy calculation, you can use: ABV = (OG - FG)/.75 (and then multiply by 100 to get a percentage) or ABV = (OG - FG)*131 However, it's not a linear relationship, so there's a fair bit of error in both of those estimations but they'll get you within a half a percentage point of the actual value. If you are concerned about ...


4

You can add more yeast anytime if you like, but 1.040 to 1.014 sounds like its done fermenting to me. The beer isn't going to get much more fermented than what it is now. The beer would have to be pretty hot for the yeast to get completely killed off. There should be plenty of yeast left to carbonate the beer. If you really feel that yeast is the reason ...


4

There is brauhaus - a javascript library for homebrew beer calculations, both in the browser and on the server I have not used it - the homepage says features include: Support for multiple Javascript runtimes Node.js 0.6.x, 0.8.x, 0.10.x Chrome, Firefox, Internet Explorer 9+, Safari, Opera, etc Calculate estimated OG, FG, IBU, ABV, SRM color, ...


3

You can dilute/blend your beer to diminish the ABV (and increase the volume). Brew Your Own magazine has a nice article on that.


3

Ignoring the other ferementables (lime and pineapple juice) 3 cups of sugar weights about 600g - or 1.32lb. Table sugar has a potential of 1.046 points per pound per gallon, which gives an estimated SG of 46 x 1.32 / 2 = 30 gravity units So your ginger beer would have had an initial SG of 1.030. I plugged these figures into BeerSmith, which computes ...


3

I asked a while back on adding peppers and was given a link to an excellent article on adding chillies to beer. I went with the dry hopping technique, and used chipotle peppers instead of the original plan of jalapenos or habaneros because I wanted the smokey flavor and I was not at all disappointed by the outcome. In fact, I loved it. I want to do it ...


3

You tagged with first-time-brewer... if this is true, I would caution against making an infused beer right out the gate. Fancy beers can be a tricky proposition. That said, my best guess is that you could do an infusion similar to using vanilla, since it seems like a similar plant. See this question & answers about vanilla. There's some discussion ...


3

You'll have trouble with the sugars fermenting. One option, which may or may not work, is to make the 'beer' to your target alcohol percentage, then filter it really good to pull out as much yeast as possible, and then perhaps add a potasium metabisulfite tablet or two to retard any remaining yeast. You could then add your sugar sweeteners without them ...


3

The combination of hydrometer and refractometer readings can be used to estimate the ABV % of a finished fermentation. See the section titled Measurement of ABV in this BYO article.


2

Charlie Bamforth, in a recent episode of the beersmith podcast, mentioned that zinc was used in some UK Breweries to assist with head retention. He suggested that 2mg per litre would be about right (Its been a while since I listened so please check it out first, just in case you poision yourself!). If memory serves me, the discussion is towards the end of ...


2

Yes, you can pitch a low alcohol yeast and it will stop fermenting when it reaches it's alcohol tolerance, leaving your mead sweet due to the residual sugars. You do need to consider that the exact ABV at which the yeast stops working is variable and may not match exactly what is on the package. If necessary, you could add more sugar or honey after ...


2

Heres a good bit of information from the mad fermentationist about alcohol content and fruit in beer: http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2010/10/adding-fruit-to-beer-increases-alcohol.html Fruit also contains other things (water) that will further dilute the beer, so the effect will be minimal, if anything at all, and can actually cause the total alcohol ...


2

For very high gravity beers, you can use White Labs Super High Gravity Yeast - WLP099. It has a stated alcohol tolerance of 25%. You can use just this yeast, or use the regular yeast that you want to use to produce the dominant flavor profile, and then pitch WLP099 when fermentation is 2/3 complete (ideally, from an active fermenting starter comprising the ...


2

A hop tea may work. However, the bitterness extracted from hops at pH > 6 becomes progressively harsher with higher pH. Thus, to get a more rounded bitterness, you should not boil in plain water, which has a pH > 7. You could try boiling the hops in a little of the fermented beer, since this will have pH in the ball park of what you need. (Fermented beer is ...


2

Both Denny Conn and mdma were correct to some extent. I am not able to pick who answered the question fully at this go of it. So I’ll answer with my own results and hope others experiment further to dial in the process. I planned on splitting a 5 gallon batch all along for comparison so I wouldn't feel it wasn't wasted if it didn't turn out. The design ...


1

When you add water, make sure you don't get chlorinated water like some cities provide. The yeast doesn't like the clorine and you could get problems with bottle carbonation.


1

Morebeer has a simple table for common fruits, http://morebeer.com/articles/fruit_in_beer It is unlikely you will lower the alcohol content unless the addition is primarily water, not at all sweet, or your beer is extremely high alcohol to begin with.


1

I use Brewtarget. It's a java open source utility that does all you need for brewing beer, including equipment calculations, mash/ sparge temps, estimates pre boil, post boil and finishing volumes and gravity, IBU, SRM and has some nice recipe and brewday instruction printouts.


1

There was a discussion on HBT about this. If you measure in Fahrenheit, the formula is as follows: C = ((1.313454 - (0.132674*F) + (0.00205779 * F^2) - (0.000002627634 * F^2))) Where C is the correction, and F is degrees Fahrenheit of the liquid being measured with the hydrometer. This assumes the hydrometer is calibrated for 59 degrees Fahrenheit. ...


1

The November/December issue of Zymurgy magazine has an article on adding chiles to beer. They recommend pairing a dark beer, like a brown ale, with dried red chiles. They cited examples of brewers either adding the chiles in the boil kettle, or using a dry hopping technique (adding chiles as an ingredient in the fermenter, usually during secondary ...


1

Agreed with @brewchez. The SG of 1.014 tells you that a lot of fermenting has already happened (though it is odd that you saw no airlock activity; what about yeast foam on the surface or stuck to the sides of the fermenter just above the liquid level?). With an O.G. of 1.040 you'd usually expect a bit more attenuation, down to 1.010 or 1.012, unless you've ...



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