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For the record, I am using some storebought kegs, but figure you guys know more about all of this than I do. EDIT: I checked the internet and the couplers to the keg are of the sanke variety.

Here's the deal: I have a two tap kegerator and the aggressive amount of foaming is wrecking my beer drinking experience. I've got the CO2 set to the lowest setting the regulator will allow (4psi) and it's kicking out SO much foam, I am unsure what to fix now.

I haven't run the tubing in the kegerator very elegantly. But I am opening the tap as fast as possible and doing everything else you would (glass angle, etc.) But the foam that fires out of the tap right now is just so... aggressive.

Help?

Chow

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how long is the tubing from the keg to the faucet? Also, be sure to bleed the co2 from the keg when reducing pressure on the regulator. –  mdma May 2 '13 at 11:54
    
He's talking about commercial/sankes. I don't think you can "bleed" a sanke without pouring beer out. That said, this question is probably off-topic because it's not about homebrew kegs. –  paul May 2 '13 at 15:42
    
Thanks for that clarification - I didn't quite get the meaning, but I hope the poster replies to confirm if it's a sanke or a corny, maybe with a picture of the keg, if he's unsure. –  mdma May 2 '13 at 20:15
    
Woops, there are release valves on sanke couplers. –  paul May 3 '13 at 5:01

2 Answers 2

up vote 2 down vote accepted

The excess foam is because there's too much pressure. There are two things I would try. The first is easy - turn off the CO2 and let the pressure in the keg push the beer out. If the sanke coupler has a release valve, you can use that to bleed off the excess CO2.* Once you have released the pressure and your problem should go away. Once it goes down, turn the CO2 back on and set to 4-5 so your beer doesn't go flat.

Another thing you can try is to use a longer piece of beer line tubing. How long are you using now? For corny kegs 6' is generally fine, but for sankes like you have, 10' is better.

*Edited to include suggestion from Tobias Patton in comments.

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There's a calculator here that will tell you how long your line should be given pressure, line resistance and height change. For short runs, use 3/16" line, not 1/4". The internal resistance is much higher. –  Tobias Patton May 2 '13 at 5:08
    
This is a useful link, but he doesn't know the "pressure in the keg in PSI" because it's a commercial sanke, not a corny that he carbonated himself. –  paul May 2 '13 at 15:40
    
True. But he could measure it with some inexpensive hardware. A 60 psi gauge with a 1/4" MPT to barb adapter attached to the gas-in line would take care of it. Or a call to the brewery -- I'm sure they know what pressure they carb to kegs to. –  Tobias Patton May 2 '13 at 17:12
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One more thing. The Sankey connector we have on the beer fridge in the office has a manual pressure relief valve. If the keg is over carbonated, manually release the pressure once an hour until the pressure has dropped enough that gas flows through the regulator. –  Tobias Patton May 2 '13 at 17:14
    
Thanks Tobias -- I think that was the trick. There was a ton of pressure in the line. I used the release valve and it dropped the PSI to 0. So I calibrated it back to 5 from there. Will report back and accept the answer tonight after I have a few pints. :) –  chow May 3 '13 at 1:12

In addition to the comments regarding pressure (which I agree is the most likely cause; Even if you've turned down the pressure, the actual pressure in the keg won't go down until it's released through the tap or a relief valve), I'd also ask what the conditions of your beer line are. The line & faucet should be cleaned regularly with cleaner (something like PBW or BLC), then rinsed with clean water, and finally sanitized.

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