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I have a corny keg that won't hold pressure unless it's kept at constant pressure at around 10 - 15 psi which apparently is enough to compress the seal against the opening of the keg enough to stop CO2 from leaking out. I need to serve from this keg for an evening out of really short line (1 ft), which means that I'll be serving at something like 3 - 5 psi. That will immediately leak from the keg, since the pressure isn't high enough to hold the seal.

The keg leaks from the seal around the lid. At some point in the life of the keg (prior to getting to me) the opening became slightly malformed. I've changed the rings, the lid, and every piece of hardware on the keg. I've tried coating the crap out of the lid with keg lube.

The keg is currently filled with beer which is keg conditioning (at 20 psi :P), so I can't currently make any physical changes to the keg unless it involves the lid somehow, since I can always re-pressurize. I'd rather not move the beer out and back in again because of oxygenation.

Any ideas on how I can get this keg to hold a low amount of pressure, even for just an evening?

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Thanks for this post. One of my Cornys is having the same problem. I'm new to kegging and at this stage prefer to condition in the kegs - obviously that's not working out well. The Orings are all beautiful, but the lid just doesn't require any force to attach so once I take the CO2 off it's poor. Will try the penny trick to get a little more leverage on feet, which are fine. Also, this lid has a different configuration than my other three, not sure why. –  user2316 Apr 9 '12 at 14:00
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2 Answers 2

up vote 9 down vote accepted

First, go to your living room. Trust me....
Flip over your easy chair and shake it all around. Trust me...
Flip over your couch. Don't eat the crusty old cheetos that fall out. Trust me, I am not insane.
Gather up the loose change.

Unlatch the lid, the keg pressure will keep the lid closed. The wedge a penny under each foot of the lid latch, between the feet of the latch and the top of the keg body. I hope that makes sense. The pennies under each foot will force the latch handle to push UP more when you close it. Pulling the lids lip UP against the underside lip of the keg opening. If that's not enough Use two pennies per foot. Or a nickel and a dime; they are all diffenet thicknesses.

Its a bit of a tricky process. But it can be done. It doesn't hurt to apply more lube to the large O-ring again if you do depressurize while screwing around.

Also, try turning the lid 180 degress in the process too. I have a couple lids that just don't like to sit a certain way, when I turn them they seal up.

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That's a good idea brewchez. There are also places where you can get new feet for the keg lid, if they are worn. You may also want to check the top of the keg to see if it is warped. I had a keg I bought with a bunch of equipment from a guy who was getting out of brewing that wouldn't seal. Turns out the top of the keg had been slightly squashed below the level of the rubber handles where the sides begin. It put the top out of round, essentially ruining the keg. –  TinCoyote Feb 10 '10 at 15:07
    
Oh, it's definitely the top of the keg that's warped. I bought a whole new lid for it with no avail. Still - I'm digging this pennies idea. Thus far we're holding pressure and keg-carbonating. Thanks! –  topfermented Feb 12 '10 at 13:21
    
Good to hear. I would retire that keg after this run. Kegs are too cheap to have a warped one ruin a batch in the future. Mine was so warped that if you turned it upside down with water inside, it would pour out. In retrospect, I should have spotted it sooner. –  TinCoyote Feb 13 '10 at 4:14
    
I was going to retire it, but then I thought: What if I build a beer engine and use that keg ONLY for Real Ales? –  topfermented Feb 24 '10 at 16:32
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There are oversized O rings available to fix this problem. One place to ghet them is William's Brewing (not an endorsement for the company, just the product). There may be others.

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